-
38 K2:The Mountaineer’s Mountain, Part One
|
-
Book Review: Remote Exposure – A Guide to Hiking and Climbing Photography
|
-
Nautical Series: Skip Novak
|
“I still view my first Whitbred Round The World race in 1977 as my most memorable sailing achievement. I was going out into the unknown. We were out of touch the whole time. Radios didn’t work and we had no GPS; I was navigating with a sexton. I just disappeared after the start, and arrived thirty days later in New Zealand.”
-
Nautical Series: Greg Landreth and Keri Pashuk
|
“[T]here is a lot of common ground (between sailing and climbing)… When you’re climbing, the general rhythm is that you have an anchor, a rest and then you scurry to the next spot to put your anchor in. And do it all over again. With sailing, you just stretch out the time scale by some years (and the expense by quite a number of zeros after the comma).
-
Nautical Series: Bob Shepton
|
In 2010, Scottish skipper/ex-priest Bob Shepton “lured” Belgians Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and American Ben Ditto to the coast of Greenland with photos of a virgin wall, whose location he refused to disclose until they hired him to take them there. The climbers put up several new big-wall routes, using Shepton’s sailboat–Dodo’s Delight–as their floating base camp.
-
Serkhe Khollu, Bolivia: A New Line on Crutches
|
A rope length away from the summit of Ala Izquierda in Bolivia, Isabel Suppe was pulled from her perch on the summit ridge and tumbled 400m. She and her partner spent the following two nights in the open, trying to crawl back to camp. Her partner died of hypothermia during the second night, and she was rescued the next day. One year later, Isabel hobbled to the base of Serkhe Khollu on crutches, and put up a new line on the southwest face of this 5546-meter peak.
-
Before and After
|
Two videos show how a day in the life of Renan Ozturk changed (and didn’t change) after a near-fatal accident.
-
Cratering in Newfoundland
|
Still gripping his axe, Eliot hung over the water. We pulled him back from being crushed. He didn’t whine, whimper or scream out; there was no indication of his pain besides the funny way he rolled his next cigarette.
-
Chad’s Ennedi Dessert: A Google Earth Adventure
|
They began by traveling the only paved road in the country–and then driving 700 kilometers farther.
-
The Threshold Effect
|
Alfred Mummery wrote in his 19th century classic book, My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus, “It has frequently been noticed that all mountains appear doomed to pass through the three stages: An inaccessible peak – The most difficult ascent in the Alps – An easy day for a lady.” While the misogynistic temper of this famous quote is obsolete, its more general point seems to ring true.
-
Alexander Odintsov on Latok III
|
-
Steve House New Hampshire Video
|
-
Video: Grabbing The Dragon By The Horns
|
In the last days of April, David Kaszlikowski and Eliza Kubarska hacked their way through the Malaysian jungle to reach the twin granitic towers that dominate the island Tioman–Dragon’s Horns.
-
The Original ‘Mountain’ Bikers
|
The brothers climbed the face. At 4478 meters they stood, triumphant and utterly spent. And yet, there was probably some quiet, persistent voice whispering an unpleasant reminder in the back of their minds: Nice job. Now get down there and ride back home.
-
AAC Five-Year Plan: The Long-Awaited Remodel
|
A look at “the most significant changes to AAC programs in its 109-year history.”
-
Talented Alpinist Joe Puryear Dies at Age 37
|
Mark Westman reflects on the life of Joe Puryear, who died last October after falling through a cornice on Labuche Kang, Tibet.
-
The Asgard Project: A Q&A with Alastair Lee
|
Hauling 30-plus pounds of equipment up the 1000m face of Mt. Asgard, Filmmaker Alastair Lee foregoes light-and-fast style in order to produce a film that is visually outstanding and leaves the audience with sweat-drenched palms and a hankering to seek out epic of their own.
-
Speed Series Part IV: Hans Florine
|
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “I think we may have [speed climbed] before we called it that… We were in college, and we wanted to get in as much climbing as we could before classes on Monday.”
-
Piolet d’Or Nominees
|
Since the Piolet d’Or’s rebirth, multiple awards have become standard, and it seems likely that on April 15 there could be several given out. Each of the teams exhibited good style in a committing environment. The Piolet d’Or’s festivities will run from the weekend April 9-10 through April 16 with evening events open to the public. In an age when guided ascents and commercial fiascos on Everest seem to dominate the mainstream media’s view of climbing, honoring the alpinists mentioned above could be a chance to show off the climbing community’s values to the general public.
-
Golden Decade: The Birth of 8000m Winter Climbing
|
Winter in the Himalaya is difficult for many reasons. Temperatures at base camp can plummet to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and much lower farther up. Because of the cold, climbing at night is virtually impossible, and the days are short. The winds are much stronger and more persistent because of the jet stream, which blows almost constantly from December through the end of March. Tents are constantly being destroyed or blown away. The wind also strips away the snow, exposing rock and hard ice, making easier slopes more technical and time-consuming. Lower barometric pressure leads to less oxygen in the…
-
Speed Series Part III: Ueli Steck
|
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “I think it is nice to be able to climb a peak in several hours instead of several days. You don’t have to suffer so much.”
-
Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia
|
In the early 1990’s Lowe struggled through a divorce, a failed business and deep remorse for neglecting his two-year-old daughter. Needing an escape from this emotional crisis, he made a solo pilgrimage to the Eiger’s Nordwand. When one of the world’s greatest climbers makes a solo winter attempt on the most legendary north face in the world, an extraordinary story is inevitable.
-
Speed Series Part II: Sean Leary and Dean Potter
|
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “We’re always filled with the knowledge that if we fall, it’s a minimum 100-footer and probably way more. You’re going to kill your friend and probably mutilate or kill yourself.”
-
Book Review: Recompense: Streams Summits and Reflections
|
Irwin began writing when his father made him keep a journal on family vacations. As he grew older, writing became an increasingly important part of his life. He coupled this passion with a love of the outdoors, and it has taken him across North America and beyond. His travels are always under the banner of climbing, skiing, fly-fishing and, of course, writing.
-
Speed Series Part I: Alex Honnold
|
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “It’s all super safe as long as no one falls.”
-
Thoughts on the Denali Fee Hike
|
The small minority of climbers seeking a difficult alpine experience on America’s highest peak will end up paying a steep fee along with the many climbers trudging up the West Buttress, an unfortunate side effect of the mountain’s prominence and popularity.
-
Tinkering with the Guillotine
|
“Mad Scientist” Matt Maddaloni rediscovers his passion for climbing through a quirky but surprisingly functional invention: the Anticam.
-
2010 Mugs Stump Update: Success, Tragedy and Savage Peaks
|
In 2010, the Mugs Stump Award recipients attempted an array of bold objectives, from first ascents on obscure peaks in Tibet and Greenland; to new routes on well-known faces in the Central Alaska Range. Whether teams ultimately reached success or failure, each enterprise was undertaken with the same style and audacity as the award’s namesake.
-
Banff Mountain Festival: Top 5
|
The Banff Mountain Festival offered a week jam-packed with films, presentations, special speakers, workshops, trade shows, book fairs and panel discussions. A few events were worth highlighting, however, and Alpinist brings you those in the form of “Top 5 Bests” from the Banff Mountain Festival.
-
Kevin McLane’s Canadian Rock: What It Takes to Write a Guidebook
|
Thirteen Hundred rock climbs. Seventy climbing areas. More than 800 photos and topos. In other words: a lot of work.
