The End of the Beginning
In this 2016 Full Value story from Alpinist 55, Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz peers into the dark side of the dirtbag dream.
In this 2016 Full Value story from Alpinist 55, Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz peers into the dark side of the dirtbag dream.
The application period is now open for the second annual Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award. Applications are due by March 15 for trips taking place between April 1, 2019, and March 31, 2020.
Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives has been selected as a judge for the 2019 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. The other two judges are Roger Hubank and Tony Shaw. The award will be presented at the next Kendal Mountain Festival in the United Kingdom on November 14-17.
The American Alpine Club recently announced the award recipients who will be honored at the club’s annual benefit dinner on March 9 in San Francisco, California. The honorees are Kelly Cordes, Jim Donini, Brette Harrington, Tom Hornbein, Jeremy Jones, Michael Kennedy and Kate Rutherford. Dennis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Jaroslaw Botor and Piotrek Tomala are also being recognized for their rescue of Elizabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat last January. Colin Haley is the keynote speaker.
The Grit and Rock First Ascent Expedition Award for female alpinists is now accepting applications until January 15, 2019. The program launched in October 2016 and is now in its third cycle.
Two historic free ascents happened within the last several days on the Nose (VI 5.14a, 2,900′) of El Capitan: Keita Kurakami free climbed the route as a rope-solo in a single push from the ground on November 14-18, and 15-year-old Connor Herson free climbed it in a three-day push with his dad belaying and cleaning every pitch, topping out on November 19 after three days of climbing.
Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz took the SPOT X 2-Way Satellite Messenger into the mountains and desert to test its capabilities. He appreciated the device’s unlimited two-way messaging and navigational tools, not to mention the potential to send an SOS signal if he needed a rescue, but he reports that there is room for improvement. Three stars.
Madaleine Sorkin and Mary Harlan raised awareness for the Climbing Grief Fund by climbing two routes in the Black Canyon in a day on October 29. Their intentions to climb a third route were thwarted by rain. In May, a loose flake had resulted in a climbing closure that ended their earlier plans for a “24 Hours into the Black” linkup. Since then, the National Park Service has been studying the flake on South Chasm View Wall, and results are pending for December at the earliest. The flake is currently estimated to have a volume of 3,800 tons, which rivals the massive rockfalls that happened on El Capitan last year.
The American Alpine Club is now accepting applications for its Cutting Edge Grant, the Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant and the Jones Live Like Liz Award–due by November 30. In partnership with the Access Fund, the AAC also recently awarded $10,000 to replace aging bolts at nine US climbing areas.
For the second year in a row, an Alpinist story has been selected for the Best Mountaineering Article Award in the Banff Mountain Book Competition. Alison Criscitiello’s story from Alpinist 59, titled “Contraindications,” was selected for the top prize in this category out of four finalists. “Contraindications,” is about Criscitiello’s close friend Anna Smith, who died at age 31 during an expedition in the Indian Himalaya.