Derek Franz

Multitudes gathered in Modesto, California, on March 12, to honor the life of Royal Robbins, who died on March 14, 2017, at age 82 after a long illness. Most climbers are aware of the Robbins’ numerous contributions to climbing but Robbins was much more than just a climber–he was a loving, contributing member of his Modesto community.

On February 1, Dave Allfrey, Kieran Brownie and Paul McSorley completed a new route up the unclimbed northwest face of Cerro Pajarito in the Cerros de Mavecure in Guainia, Colombia. El Abrazo de la Serpiente (Embrace of the Serpent; V 5.11c R/X 660m) was established ground up, onsight, over two trips. The rainforest heat was the crux.

Jim Bridwell died this morning, February 16, in Palm Springs, California, after months of suffering from illness. He was 73. Nicknamed “the Bird,” Bridwell has been an icon of American climbing for decades. He arrived in Yosemite as a wide-eyed 17-year-old and learned from the foremost climbers of the day, including Royal Robbins, Layton Kor (for whom he later named his son), Chuck Pratt and Frank Sacherer. He eventually mentored the next generation of climbing legends such as John Long, John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Billy Westbay and countless others. Bridwell was known for ingenuity as well as climbing prowess.

Grit and Rock recently announced the recipients of its 2018 First Ascent Award, a grant that is dedicated to promoting mountain exploration and first ascents by women. The recipients this year, in alphabetical order, are Katie Bono, Cecilia Buil, Whitney Clark, Ixchel Foord, Ilana Jesse, Josie McKee, Nina Neverov, Caro North, Alena Panova and Anna Torretta. The teams plan to attempt new routes in Alaska, India, Kyrgyzstan and Nepal.

Elisabeth Revol of France has been rescued and Tomek Mackiewicz of Poland is presumed dead on Nanga Parbat (8126m) in Pakistan after completing the second winter ascent of the peak. A GoFundMe campaign has been started to help support Mackiewicz’s wife and three kids. Revol is recovering from frostbite.

The American Alpine Club recently announced that Whitney Clark, Ryan Johnson, Kurt Ross and Alan Rousseau will receive Cutting Edge Grants this year, totaling $20,000. The grants will support expeditions to Alaska, India and Pakistan.

Today marks the official opening of the application period for the inaugural Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award. Applications are due by March 15 for trips taking place between April 1, 2018-March 31, 2019. The winner(s) will be announced on March 27, Kyle’s birthday.

The first few days of January provided good conditions for Marc-Andre Leclerc and Tom Livingstone to make the first winter ascent of Mt. Slesse’s Navigator Wall, a goal that Leclerc has had in mind for a while. Meanwhile, Brette Harrington and Kieran Brownie did a link-up of two satellite peaks nearby, completing some likely first winter ascents as well.