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Derek Franz

The north face of Mt. Hooker in Wyoming's Wind River Range. [Photo] Austin Siadak

Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell free ‘Original Sin’ (V 5.12+, 1,800′) on Wyoming’s Mt. Hooker

On August 10-21, Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell free climbed Original Sin (V 5.12+, 1,800′) on the north face of Mt. Hooker in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. Their line mostly follows the 1964 Royal Robbins route, which was the country’s first Grade VI climb outside of Yosemite. Huey and Birdwell climbed the crux pitch with pre-placed beaks to avoid adding bolts to the original route. “Freeing an old Robbins route from 1964 ground-up is certainly a lifetime achievement for both Jesse and I,” Birdwell said.

Peter Pass the Pitons Pete Zabrok took this photo of his partner Ryan Sheridan on top of Yosemite's El Capitan when the September 28 rockfall broke loose and sent debris flying all the way into the Merced River, which can be seen below. A man was injured when a rock crashed through the roof of his SUV. Zabrok, Sheridan and Patrick Mcredmond were climbing in the area of the wall where the rockfalls originated, and were just a few hundred feet above the first rockfall when it happened. [Photo] Peter Zabrok

Second, larger rockfall on El Capitan injures another person after first event resulted in one death and one injury

On September 27, one person was killed and one injured after major rockfall occurred on the eastern flank of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. Yesterday afternoon, even more massive rockfall rained down from Yosemite’s El Capitan, injuring another person. The events happened on and around the Waterfall Route, which is between the popular routes Zodiac and the East Buttress. Three climbers, including Peter “Pass the Pitons Pete” Zabrok, had been climbing the Waterfall Route and were above the rockfalls when they happened.

A huge plume of granite dust billows at the base of Yosemite's El Capitan where a massive series of rockfalls occurred the afternoon of September 27. A fresh, white rock scar where the event originated can be seen to the right of the black streaks. One person was killed and another injured. [Photo] Tom Evans

One killed and one injured after a series of rockfalls on El Capitan’s Waterfall Route

One person was killed and one injured after a massive rockfall occurred on the eastern flank of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park yesterday afternoon. The event happened on or near the Waterfall Route, which is between the popular routes Zodiac and the East Buttress. Three climbers, including Peter “Pass the Pitons Pete” Zabrok, had been climbing the Waterfall Route and were just above the rockfall when it happened. Photographer Tom Evans witnessed the event from the ground.

On the North Pillar of Devils Thumb (Taalkhunaxhkʼu Shaa). [Photo] Cole Taylor

Cole Taylor solos the second ascent of the North Pillar on Devils Thumb

This summer Cole Taylor made the second ascent of the North Pillar on Devils Thumb (Taalkhunaxhk’u Shaa) 40 years after its first ascent, entirely solo and self-supported after sailing from Washington to the toe of the Baird Glacier in Thomas Bay, Alaska. He completed his expedition in nine days and did not get a rest day until he returned to his boat, just as the fortuitous window of good weather broke.

The west face of Xanadu. [Photo] Engberg, Bain, Boning and Braasch collection

Three parties establish three new routes on Xanadu’s west face

The central west face of Xanadu in Alaska’s Arrigetch Peaks was untouched until this year when three parties established three routes in July and August. The first route to go in was a 5.13+ done by Zeb Engberg, David Bain, Gabe Boning and Billy Braasch, the second was an A4 aid route put up by soloist Silvia Vidal and the third was a 5.11+ established onsight in a day by Vitaliy Musiyenko, Brian Prince and Adam Ferro.

Marooned at Midnight (VI A3 5.11 R, 17 pitches, 700m) climbs a formation the Inuit call Umiguqjuaq. [Image] Sam England and Ryan Little

Alabamans ‘Marooned at Midnight’ for first ascent of an unclimbed wall on Baffin Island

Two Alabamans, Ryan Little, 26, and Sam England, 30, received an American Alpine Club Live Your Dream Grant to attempt the unclimbed Chinese Wall in Baffin Island’s famous Sam Ford Fjord this past August–but the sea ice hadn’t broken up enough to allow boat access, as they’d planned. With no time to spare, they shifted their sights to a wall in the Clyde Inlet, an area that has been almost completely ignored by climbers, and they succeeded in establishing Marooned at Midnight (VI A3 5.11 R, 17 pitches, 700m) on a formation the Inuit call Umiguqjuaq.