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The northwest face of Chamlang (7321m) with UFO Line (ABO: M6, WI5, 2500m) marked in red. [Photo] Zdenek Hak and Marek Holecek collection

Four “significant ascents” announced for 2020 Piolets d’Or

The Piolets d’Or committee has announced the selection of four “significant ascents” from 2019 that will be recognized on September 19-22 during the Ladek Mountain Film Festival in Poland. Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak (Czech Republic), Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima (Japan), Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman (USA), and Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva (USA) are all being recognized for their respective ascents of Chamlang (7321m), Rakaposhi (7,788m), Link Sar (7041m) and Tengi Ragi Tau (6938m). Catherine Destiville is receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award.

Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell can be seen standing on the summit of the Sharkstooth (12,630') in Rocky Mountain National Park at sunrise on Saturday, July 18, during their Continental Divide Ultimate Linkup (CDUL). [Photo] Adam Stack

Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell complete “Continental Divide Ultimate Linkup” in Rocky Mountain National Park

Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold have completed a linkup of staggering proportions in Rocky Mountain National Park. The duo dubbed their route the Continental Divide Ultimate Linkup (CDUL). They stood atop 17 summits and completed 11 technical climbing routes (totaling approximately 65 pitches varying in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.11) and covered about 35 miles and 20,000 feet of vertical gain in roughly 36 hours. “We’re both slightly injured and hobbling around,” Honnold told Alpinist.

The author wearing the La Sportiva Testarossa climbing shoes at a crag near Redstone, Colorado. [Photo] Nat Gustafson

La Sportiva Testarossa: Still one of the best climbing shoes money can buy

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz has been using the slightly redesigned La Sportiva Testarossa climbing shoes for the past several months and discovered what he’s been missing in his collection. He writes, “I only recently came to realize why so many of my climbing partners have been rocking the La Sportiva Testarossa for the last 17 years. I get it now!” Five stars.

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“A Thousand Ways to Kiss the Ground” is now available to watch with donations to the Climbing Grief Fund

Today marks the release of the long-anticipated film, “A Thousand Ways to Kiss the Ground,” directed by Henna Taylor. The film release is in conjunction with a fundraiser for the Climbing Grief Fund (CGF)–from now until July 20, people who donate $15 or more to the CGF will receive access to the film. There is also an online auction from July 7 through July 20, and discussion panels on July 9 and July 14. The film includes interviews with prominent climbers such as Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill and many more. The project’s aim was “to capture the climbing community’s collective experience of grief and loss, and the nuanced wisdom inherent in each individual’s relationship with grief.”

Derek Franz sets up his Zenbivy bed during a backpack trip in Colorado's Elk Range. [Photo] Mandi Franz

Zenbivy Light: A quilt that pairs with a sheet to become a cozy bed

Alpinist digital editor Derek Franz has been using the Zenbivy Light bed system for the past year. As a guy who prefers to avoid the constriction of mummy sleeping bags, he sleeps comfortably with the Zenbivy in a variety of environments. His only critique is that the setup can be a little tedious. Four stars.

Mitsu Iwasaki will assume duties as the new Chief Executive Officer of the American Alpine Club on August 3. [Photo] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club

Mitsu Iwasaki begins duties as the American Alpine Club’s new CEO on August 3

The American Alpine Club announced yesterday that Mitsu Iwasaki will take over as its Chief Executive Officer on August 3. Iwasaki is replacing CEO Phil Powers, who announced last October that he would be stepping down this summer after serving for 15 years. Iwasaki is has been working as the Executive Director of the Mazamas in Portland, Oregon, since August 2019.

Matteo Bernasconi in his element. [Photo] Courtesy of Matteo Della Bordella

Italian alpinist Matteo Bernasconi killed in avalanche while ski-mountaineering

As travel restrictions for the COVID-19 pandemic continue, climbers around the world connected remotely through Facebook on May 17 to raise their glasses in a toast to the life of Matteo “Berna” Bernasconi, a highly regarded Italian alpinist who died in an avalanche while ski-mountaineering in northern Italy on May 12. He was 38 years old. Bernasconi worked as a mountain guide since 2011, was a prominent member of the elite Ragni di Lecco (Lecco Spiders) club and is credited with numerous first ascents across the world, especially in Patagonia.

A screenshot of the Winter Wildlands Alliance Backcountry Film Fest video. [Photo] Derek Franz

Film festivals are offering free online viewings; here’s what we’re watching

As the COVID-19 pandemic spread throughout the United States and the world, stay-in-place orders have forced a change of plans for all kinds of public gatherings. That includes film festivals, some of which are now offering free online viewings. Here we’ve gathered some links to free film fests and videos that we think may be of interest to Alpinist readers.

Geof Childs is receiving the H. Adams Carter Literary Award at the American Alpine Club's annual benefit dinner on March 14. The in-person gathering was canceled because of concerns about the Coronavirus pandemic, and the event will be livestreamed online instead. [Photo] Geof Childs collection

Coronavirus concerns prompt American Alpine Club to conduct benefit dinner remotely

The coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic–which recently reached Colorado–has prompted the American Alpine Club (to make changes to it’s annual benefit dinner (ABD), which is the club’s biggest fundraiser of the year. This Saturday, March 14, instead of eating steak and prawns while rubbing elbows with climbing legends, guests are now invited to attend the event online as a “Virtual ABD,” starting at 5 p.m. Mountain Time. The livestream will also be open to the public.