We are sad to report that a series of avalanches has devastated villages in the Pakistan-controlled part of Kashmir. Steve Swenson, a climber and author who is very familiar with the area, has provided Alpinist with some description about the hazards villagers face in these mountains.
The American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner weekend will be in Denver on Friday and Saturday, March 13-14. Tickets are now available on the AAC website. It promises to be particularly special because it will be Phil Powers’ last Benefit Dinner as club CEO. Kris McDivitt Tompkins, former CEO of Patagonia and current president of Tompkins Conservation, will deliver the keynote address.
![Derek Franz on Magnetar (5.13d), Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado. The Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw is the first one clipped to the rope above the ground, near the lower right corner of the frame. The carabiner that the Bulletproof draw replaced was severely grooved. [Photo] Karissa Frye](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/edelrid-bulletproof-quickdraw-1-2.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Alpinist Digital Editor tested the Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw at Rifle Mountain Park, a world-famous sport crag where the volume of traffic frequently destroys carabiners. The Bulletproof showed hardly any signs of wear after hanging on one of the canyon’s most popular routes for four months, earning five stars. “Wait! This review is for Alpinist, what the hell is this sport climbing equipment doing here?” Franz writes. Read the article at Alpinist.com for his answer.
![Mandi Franz follows the Vector Traverse on Escape Artist (III 5.10-, 7 pitches) in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado. [Photo] Derek Franz](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a68-tcl-the-less-you-talk-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 68, our digital editor Derek Franz articulates the value of staying quiet while climbing with his wife. “I’ve learned that my enthusiasm can be a detriment,” he writes. “My impulse, ever since I was a kid, has been to try to offer guidance…. I want to encourage her; I want her to realize the ability she has. My words usually come out wrong.”
![Brad Gobright climbing Lurking Fear (VI 5.7 C2, 2,000') on El Capitan.[Photo] Cheyne Lempe](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/brad-gobright-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Brad Gobright died in a rappelling accident in El Potrero Chico, Mexico on November 27. The 31-year-old Californian was a highly accomplished free-soloist and big wall climber, former Nose speed-record holder with Jim Reynolds. He was loved and respected by many people around the world and was known to have a goofy sense of humor.
![The author appreciating the sticky rubber of the Salewa Wildfire Edge approach shoes during a log crossing on a backpack trip in western Colorado last June. [Photo] Mandi Franz](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/salewa-wildfire-edge-1-2.jpeg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz has been wearing the Salewa Wildfire Edge approach shoes everywhere for the last several months. He reports that the shoes provide excellent support, feature very sticky rubber and are best described as “technical.” Five stars.
![This illustration by Andreas Schmidt appeared with Sara Aranda's Full Value story, Into Darkness We Go, in Alpinist 62. [Illustration] Andreas Schmidt](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a62-full-value-aranda.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Two stories from Alpinist 62 (2018) have been selected for the “Notables Lists” for Best American Essays and Best American Sports Writing, respectively: Sara Ann Aranda’s Full Value story, “Into Darkness We Go,” and Joe Whittle’s Wired story, “Adventures on the Turtle’s Back.”
![Phil Powers at an American Alpine Club Benefit Dinner with Doug Walker, a former president of the AAC who died in an avalanche in 2016. [Photo] Jim Aikman](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/phil-powers-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers announced yesterday, October 1, that he plans to retire after 14 years. He will remain CEO until this winter, then he will step back and continue working with the organization as a senior advisor until next summer. The goal is to transition to new leadership by summer 2020.
![The author linking moves on Magnetar (5.13d) at Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado, last May. [Photo] Karissa Frye](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/lowa-rocket-1-2.jpeg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
After extensive testing, Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz reports that the Lowa Rockets are best suited for toe- and heel-hooking, with a secure fit that ensures they won’t slide off the heel. Franz had trouble finding a size to fit his foot comfortably, however, and there is some bagginess over the top of the big toe. Three stars.
![The cover of Alpinist 66 features Lonnie Kauk climbing Magic Line (5.14c) in Yosemite Valley. The story is on the long list for Best Mountaineering Article in the Banff Mountain Book Competition. 13 Feet Under by Jayme Moye is from the same issue and is also on the Banff longlist in the same category. [Photo] Jim Thornburg](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/banff-book-comp-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Two stories from Alpinist 66 are on the longlist for Best Mountaineering Article in the 2019 Banff competition: “13 Feet Under” By Jayme Moye, and “Magic Line,” by Lonnie Kauk with Paula Wright. The shortlist for the Boardman Tasker Award is also announced.
