On Jan 29, 2021, Brittany Goris made the first recorded female ascent of East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a), a single-pitch trad climb at the Waterfall crag in northern Arizona (Apache, Hopi, Pueblo and Hohokam territory). Just a few weeks later, Lor Sabourin also sent the route for its first recorded trans ascent.
![Mike Lewis stacks the Trango Agility on a rope tarp in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado; the red rope ends are clearly distinguished from the rest of the rope. [Photo] Mike Lewis](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/trango-agility-rope-1-1.jpg?resize=900%2C620&ssl=1)
Mountain Standards Gear Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Mike Lewis has been appreciating the Trango Agility 9.1mm rope for its handling and added safety feature of prominent red markings on each end of the line. He writes: “I believe the red ends will likely become a standard in rope design and manufacturing, and…the tight ‘Spider Wear’ construction allows [the Agility] to run through a device as smooth or smoother than any rope I’ve ever used.” Five stars.
During the pandemic, as hate crimes have risen against Asian Americans and Pacific Islanders in the US, Marinel Malvar de Jesus examines ways to build a safer and more inclusive community in the climbing world, the outdoor industry, and beyond.
From February 11 to 25, 2021, 1430-meter Cerro Huinay was climbed by four Chilean climbers: Nicolas Gutierrez, Pancho Herrera, Sebastian Rojas and Hernan Rodriguez. The 1000m, 25 pitch 5.12 A2+ was the first ascent of the wall–one of the biggest in Chilean Patagonia.
Alpinist is proud to announce the recent partnership with Mountain Journal in Seoul, South Korea, to launch Alpinist Korea–a magazine that prints Alpinist stories translated into Korean, as well as some original articles by Korean authors.
![Karen Stolz guiding on the North Face of Pitchoff, Adirondacks, 2015. [Photo] R.L. Stolz, Vertical Perspectives Photography](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/karen-stolz-1.jpg?resize=900%2C620&ssl=1)
A bright light in the Adirondacks went out on April 1 with the passing of Karen Stolz from pancreatic cancer. She was 65. Karen co-owned Adirondack Alpine Guides with her husband R.L., and she was one of the earliest and longest-serving female guides in the region. “All told, she guided 37 years and around 5,000 days,” said R.L.
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is now accepting applications for its new Catalyst Grant, a program intended to support underrepresented groups, including BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ individuals. The application deadline is May 31 and the winners will be announced in June.
![The author can be seen as a tiny dot in middle of the prow, halfway up the Tower of Babel in Arches National Park during his solo ascent of Zenyatta Entrada (5.8 C3-, 450') in February (Anasazi, Hopi, Navajo, Ouray, Paiute, Uintah, Ute, Zuni land). [Photo] Mikenna Clokey](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/tower-of-babel-1-1-scaled.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Mountain Standards Gear Review: Alpinist Digital Editor considers the merits of the oft-overlooked Metolius Offset Master Cams during a solo aid-climbing trip to Arches National Park (Ancestral Puebloan, Hopi, Navajo, Ouray, Paiute, Uintah, Ute, Zuni land). While he generally prefers the other brands, Franz notes that the Metolius design has its place on the rack. He writes: “Each design lends itself to being more suited for different situations. That’s why I think it’s important to ‘diversify your portfolio,’ as investment bankers say, and carry a variety of brands and styles. This is especially important when aid climbing because small variances can make all the difference between a solid placement and a sketchy one…. The Metolius Ultralight Offset Master Cams turned out to be the MVP (most valuable piece) during a solo ascent of the Tower of Babel (5.6 C3-, 450′).” Three stars.
![Suzana EL Massri in Scotland with Slovenian climbers Sara Jaklic (pictured) and Marija Jeglic (photographer). [Photo] Marija Jeglic](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a73-tcl-call-it-dreaming-1.jpg?resize=888%2C620&ssl=1)
In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 73–which is now on newsstands and in our online store–Suzana EL Massri reexamines her dreams during years of conflict and pandemic. She writes: “A multitude of decisions, chaos and chance forms our existence. Any sense to it is created by us, and it requires a daring belief in the future. We don’t get to carry a map for every corridor we enter. Sometimes the close-up reality of attaining visions requires the repetition of simple tasks. Doing a lot of almost nothing until it becomes something. Until we make it into something more, something worth hoping for.”
The American Alpine Club (AAC) announced the formation of their Climb United initiative in February of this year. In March, Alpinist participated in a meeting of the Climb United Route Naming Task Force, which was formed to try “to build the best publishing practices to avoid harm caused by discriminatory or oppressive route names,” according to the AAC’s website. The AAC will host a public forum on the draft guidelines on April 21 at 6 p.m. MDT.
