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Corey Buhay leads East Vail Falls (WI 3/4) with the Grivel Dark Machine ice tools. [Photo] Erica Givans

Grivel Dark Machines: A specialist’s tool for steep ice

US Ice Climbing Team Member and Ouray Ice Festival gold medalist Corey Buhay has been using the Grivel Dark Machines all season, from Colorado to Cody, Wyoming. In this report, she tells us where the Dark Machines shone, and where they left her swinging for something better. “What a pity that the glorious ease of use existed only for Cody’s steeper pitches. For many of the area’s ice climbs, the crux sections are stitched together with lower-angle WI2-3 gullies and slabs. On those portions of climbs…the arched profile of the Dark Machines proved to be more of a liability than an asset….” 3.5 stars.

Cesare Maestri [Photo] Courtesy of Giulio Malfer

Remembering Cesare Maestri (1929-2021)

Cesare Maestri, one of the most legendary figures in climbing history, died January 19 at age 91. Many of the most famous questions surrounding his career have to do with a certain tower in Patagonia–Cerro Torre–and his expeditions to its walls in 1959 and 1970. Italian climbing historian Luca Signorelli helps us remember other parts of the life of the man known as the “Spider of the Dolomites.”

Kilimanjaro (19,341'), with the Western Breach visible, as seen from Shira 1 Camp at 11,500 feet. [Photo] Christian Pondella

The Fight for Workforce Equity on Kilimanjaro

In this Wired story from Alpinist 72–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–Marinel Malvar de Jesus collects stories of local guides and porters on Kilimanjaro as they confront the inequities of the mountain tourism industry and the new challenges of a global pandemic.

Ron Kauk on top of Uli Biaho, 1979. [Photo] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club

American Alpine Club’s 2021 Benefit Gala and Awards will be a free virtual event

As the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic continues, the American Alpine Club’s Annual Benefit Gala and award presentation will once again be held virtually on February 20. The good news is that for the first time ever this will allow anyone with an Internet connection to have free access to the speeches and award presentations with some of climbing’s biggest names. This year’s honorees are Ron Kauk, Kai Lightner, Joanne and Jorge Urioste, author and co-founder of Gripped Magazine David Smart, former AAC president Glenn Porzak, Congressman Raul Grijalva, and AAC volunteers Rick Merritt and Nancy Savickas. The online event will also include many special guests, including Tommy Caldwell, Meagan Martin, Kilian Jornet, Emily Harrington and more.

K2 (8611m) as seen in summer. The Abruzzi Spur--the route of the first ascent by Italians in 1954 and the route used for the first winter ascent on January 16, 2021, by 10 Nepali climbers--follows the right-hand skyline. [Photo] Svy123, Wikimedia Commons

First winter ascent of K2: 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers summit together

Just yesterday, K2 (8611) was the last of the 14 8000-meter peaks on Earth that had yet to be climbed in winter. No more. At 5 p.m. January 16, a group of 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers from separate expeditions ascended the last few meters to the summit together as one. Summiting team members include Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja Pun Magar, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

K2 (8611m) looms above base camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier. [Photo] Alex Gavan

Four expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of K2: Alex Gavan discusses current efforts

There are currently four expeditions laboring for the first winter ascent of K2 (8611m), which is the last 8000-meter peak yet to be climbed in the coldest season. As of January 12, ropes have been fixed to Camp 3, just above 7300 meters, but that camp has yet to be fully established and recent high winds have destroyed and scattered gear at the lower camps. In this interview with Alpinist, Alex Gavan gives readers his perspective on how things are going on the mountain.

To Live: Fighting for Life on the Killer Mountain by Elisabeth Revol. Translated by Natalie Berry. Vertebrate Publishing, 2020. 154 pages. Hard cover, #24 (GBP). [Image] Courtesy Vertebrate Publishing

Elisabeth Revol’s book “To Live” is an ode to Tomasz Mackiewicz and Nanga Parbat

When Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz “Tomek” Mackiewicz reached the summit of Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat (8125m) on the evening of January 25, 2018, they had completed the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, and Revol became the first woman to summit the mountain in winter. Their ordeal was just beginning, however. Revol’s new book, “To Live: Fighting for Life on the Killer Mountain,” translated into English by Natalie Berry, sheds light on her dramatic rescue and the loss of Mackiewicz. Emily Hopcian reports that the book “is a deeply human account of the nightmare Revol endured…. It is a detailed exploration of that January 2018 expedition interwoven with fragments of Revol’s childhood in France; her introduction to and career in mountaineering; and her climbing partnership with Mackiewicz.”

Stories of Ice: Adventure, Commerce and Creativity on Canada's Glaciers by Lynn Martel. Rocky Mountain Books, 2020. 336 pages. Hardcover, $40 (CAN). [Image] Courtesy Rocky Mountain Books

Glaciers Abound in Lynn Martel’s new book, “Stories of Ice”

Sarah Boon reviews Lynn Martel’s latest book, “Stories of Ice: Adventure, Commerce and Creativity on Canada’s Glaciers,” which was published earlier this year. Boon describes the work as “a comprehensive look at how these features have shaped the ways people have traveled through and populated the land. Martel shows that we still have much to learn about the now-disappearing bodies of ice from the community of adventurers, entrepreneurs, scientists, and artists who have explored them.”

Newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert on their new route Wolke 7 (aka Cloud 9: 5.13b, 380m), on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl, Reiteralm, Austria. [Photo] Klaus Fengler

Luka Lindic and Ines Papert find big new routes close to home in Austria

After newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert canceled their Alaska expedition this past summer because of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, they reconsidered what adventures they might find close to their home. The result was two first ascents of long routes–the 12-pitch Wolke 7 (aka Cloud Nine, 5.13b, 380m) on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl near Reiteralm, and in late November, a mixed alpine route on the north face of Sagwand Spitze in Valsertal, which they named Limited in Freedom (AI6 M6, 800m).

The smooth trigger action and the sticky-rubber like traction of the soft alloy lobes are just two components that make the Alien Revolution a great choice for mountain missions. Dave Allfrey and Luke Holloway plug and play a few ridges south of Mt. Whitney (Tumanguya), California. [Photo] Tad McCrea

Fixe Ultralight Alien Revolution cams: Otherworldly friends to have on your rack

Tad McCrea used the Fixe Ultralight Alien Revolution cams on 20 big routes in the Sierra Nevada Range this past summer and he was very happy with their light weight and performance, especially for the Double Sling design that allowed him to carry less gear for extending placements. He did not find any significant drawbacks to the latest version of this long beloved cam . Five stars