When you hear the name “Monster,” it may conjure visions of a huge, ugly beast. Or for all you movie buffs it might bring a horrifying vision of Charlize Theron and Christina Ricci. Scary. Luckily, when I hear the name “Monster,” I associate it with Metolius’ climbing rope line–burly and strong.
Let’s begin with an understanding. If given the choice either to snowshoe or ski on an approach, I am going to pick skis every time. When guiding on Denali, however, I find that the combination of people’s varied ski skills, and the fact that we are schlepping huge loads up the Kahiltna Glacier, makes snowshoes the right choice.
I was looking forward to getting a set of Black Diamond’s new C3 cams since I first saw the prototypes, and when I did, they were everything I expected them to be. They’ve been on my rack for a year now, and have been put to the test in just about every condition imaginable. From the misty summit of Torre Egger to a first ascent on Mt. Alberta; from greasy Squamish finger splitters to Bugaboo wall routes; and from overhanging quartzite trad routes at the back of Lake Louise to the mixed desperates of the Icefield Parkway, these cams have served me well. Despite the abuse, they’re still working like new. They’ve held my repeated whippers, inspired the confidence I need when it comes time to run it out, and have shaved precious grams off the weight I’ve carried.
Mountain Hardwear has come out with a new 3/4 pant, the Silcox. This pant is made from eighty-five percent nylon and fifteen percent elastane and–when combined with articulated knees and a full-length gusset–has four-way stretch that is ideal for climbing, running, and… well, stretching. I sampled a size medium with a 23 1/2″ inseam, and it fit perfectly (I’m usually a classic medium with a 32″ waist). The pants come with an integrated belt made from 3/4″ webbing for cinching them up when the time comes to send that project.
I used the cushy Therm-a-Rest Prolite 4 this summer in the Wind River Range of Wyoming, where I was guiding Gannett Peak for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. I cannot say that this was my first Therm-a-Rest experience; I have owned many over the years. But the Prolite 4, the four-season model in Therm-a-Rest’s Fast and Light Series, is truly a step above. It elegantly blends weight savings with packability and, most importantly, comfort.
Weighing in at 1.11 kg, the Osprey Talon 44 is one of the lightest packs for its size on the market. While I welcome any opportunity to lighten my load, I wondered if this svelte pack, when filled with ropes and cams, could hold up to being sat on and thrown on to rocks.
In the midst of searching for the right lightweight alpine harness for this season, Alpinist’s call to review the Petzl Luna couldn’t have come at a better time. Out of the slick mesh bag it comes packed in, my first critical look quickly revealed that the harness had the features I desired: lightweight and compact; four gear loops that would be compatible with wearing a pack; adjustable leg loops; a full-strength loop in the back for a tag line; and mesh construction that offers enhanced breathability. I’ve had the harness for over a month and used it for typical guiding days in the Tetons, where its lightness and breathability is an asset.
Since I first put on the Mountain Hardwear Chockstone Jersey to guide in the Tetons five weeks ago, it hasn’t left my sight. I traveled to Chile last week to heli-ski guide and, amazingly–summer or winter–this jersey was always comfortable and left my core at just the right temperature. And at nine ounces, it’s so light and small that it easily fits into a quart-sized zip-lock bag for easy waterproof storage.
Watch the ten-minute video that documents the third ascent of the Grand Teton’s Exum Ridge, and read the story of George Waters, the photographer and climber who captured the footage–one of the first video accounts of such a committing peak–in 1931.
