Skip to content
Home » free » Page 28

free

David Lama during acclimatizing on Fox Peak, October 2018. [Photo] David Lama/Red Bull Content Pool

Auer, Lama and Roskelley killed in avalanche on Canada’s Howse Peak

Hansjorg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley are presumed to have been killed in an avalanche while attempting M-16 (VI WI7+ A2) on Howse Peak, located on the Icefields Parkway in Alberta, Canada. Parks Canada officials confirmed in a press conference today that a helicopter search was conducted and crews observed signs of multiple avalanches in the area and that “there was strong evidence that the climbing party was involved and that the victims were deceased.”

Kyle Dempster. [Photo] Andrew Burr

Four recipients selected for 2019 Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award

Four recipients have been selected for the second annual Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award. Cassady Bindrup, Gabe Dirksen, Talley Kayser and Max Neale are each receiving $1,000 for solo trips, respectively, to the Scottish Highlands, the Black Hills of South Dakota, the Sierra Nevada Range and Baranof Island, Alaska. Last year, a total of $4,000 was distributed among three recipients.

[Photo] Siggi Sigurdsson

Alpinist Community Project Flashback: Mike Libecki

From March 19-25, 2017, Mike Libecki shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about an expedition to Greenland in 2015 to climb a remote, unclimbed peak, which he’d named the Polar Bear Fang after finding it on maps and reconnoitering the approach by boat on different trips through the years. He had tried to reach the Fang–which he is certain is in a never-before visited area–on several occasions, but he had been shut down nearly every time because of sea ice, and once because there were too many polar bears to get off the boat. On this last attempt, he’d planned to go alone, but that quickly changed.

Amanda Tarr Forrest tops out on Hallucinogen Wall. [Photo] Courtesy Amanda Tarr Forrest

1997: Homecoming

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 65, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store, Amanda Tarr Forrest recounts an aid-solo ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall on the North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in 1997.

Bryan Becker on Hallucinogen Wall. [Photo] Ed Webster collection

1980: Granola and Champagne

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 65, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store, Ed Webster documents some humorous, behind-the-scenes moments that occurred during the first ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall on the North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

1972: The Excellent Adventure

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 65, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store, Jamie Logan revisits the 1972 first ascent of the Goss-Logan Route (now rated IV/V 5.11 R) on North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado.

The Allak 3 tent on a windy day near Jones Pass, Colorado. With the guy-lines taut and the canopy affixed, this tent is ready for any storm. [Photo] Drew Thayer

Hilleberg Allak 3: A light and livable 3-person, 4-season tent

Drew Thayer did some winter camping in the Hilleberg Allak 3 and awarded it five stars. He writes, “My overall impression of the Allak 3 is that it’s the best combination of storm-proofness, comfort, and weight among three-person, four-season expedition tents. Its ease of setup, durability, and livability in harsh conditions are all superb. The question is, is it worth the weight for your needs?”

Grit and Rock grant recipients. [Image] Derek Franz

Six women-led teams selected for 2019 Grit and Rock grants

Grit and Rock recently announced six teams as recipients of its 2019 First Ascent Award. The grant, which distributes $10,000 a year for women-led expeditions, aims to level the playing field in alpinism by encouraging first ascents by women. This year’s award will support climbs in Pakistan, India, Nepal, Canada and Kyrgyzstan.

Anna Piunova. [Photo] Marko Prezelj

Local Hero: Anna Piunova

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz profiles Anna Piunova, editor-in-chief of Mountain.ru. Piunova was instrumental in coordinating the helicopter rescue of Alex Gukov from 6200 meters on Latok I (7145m) in July 2018.