Skip to content
Home » free » Page 34

free

[Photo] Derek Franz collection

Safety Means More than a Good Belay

American Alpine Club President Deanne Buck and Club CEO Phil Powers share their perspective as to why the results of a recent survey about sexual harassment and sexual assault within climbing communities should be taken seriously by everyone.

Tom Frost leads Pitch 29 during the first ascent of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan in 1961. Frost, Chuck Pratt and Royal Robbins completed the climb over nine and a half days. [Photo] Royal Robbins, Tom Frost collection

The passing of two legends: Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe

Yesterday, August 24, was a fateful day for the climbing world, as two of America’s greatest climbing legends and icons passed away–Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe. Frost died of cancer at a hospice center in Oakdale, California, and Lowe died several hours later in Colorado after suffering from a prolonged illness that has been described as an “unknown neurodegenerative process” similar to MS and ALS. Frost was 81 and Lowe was 67. Both men were visionaries and innovators who impacted the philosophy, techniques and standards of difficulty during their respective generations.

Tom Livingstone leading on Latok I during his successful ascent from the north side in which he and Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar climbed three-quarters of the North Ridge before traversing right to reach the south face where they continued to the top. [Photo] Ales Cesen/Luka Strazar

Tom Livingstone recounts the experience of climbing Latok I

Tom Livingstone, Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar recently became the first climbers to summit Latok I (7145m) from the north side, climbing most of the fabled North Ridge before traversing to the south side of the mountain where they continued to the top. Upon returning home, Livingstone shared details about their ascent and what it was like to watch from base camp as the helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov unfolded. Meanwhile, statements from Gukov after the rescue indicate that he and Sergey Glazunov likely reached a new high point on the North Ridge.

Tim Auger as a young man. [Photo] Gord Irwin

Remembering Tim Auger

Tim Auger died on August 9, 2018, in Banff, Alberta, at age 72. The following story is an excerpt from a feature by Brandon Pullan titled “Homage” that appeared in Alpinist 42. Auger was an influential Canadian climber who served Parks Canada for approximately three decades. One of his most famous first ascents was the University Wall on the Chief at Squamish with Dan Tate, Glenn Woodsworth and Hamish Mutch in 1965-66.