Skip to content
Home » free » Page 35

free

Tom Frost leads Pitch 29 during the first ascent of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan in 1961. Frost, Chuck Pratt and Royal Robbins completed the climb over nine and a half days. [Photo] Royal Robbins, Tom Frost collection

The passing of two legends: Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe

Yesterday, August 24, was a fateful day for the climbing world, as two of America’s greatest climbing legends and icons passed away–Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe. Frost died of cancer at a hospice center in Oakdale, California, and Lowe died several hours later in Colorado after suffering from a prolonged illness that has been described as an “unknown neurodegenerative process” similar to MS and ALS. Frost was 81 and Lowe was 67. Both men were visionaries and innovators who impacted the philosophy, techniques and standards of difficulty during their respective generations.

Tom Livingstone leading on Latok I during his successful ascent from the north side in which he and Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar climbed three-quarters of the North Ridge before traversing right to reach the south face where they continued to the top. [Photo] Ales Cesen/Luka Strazar

Tom Livingstone recounts the experience of climbing Latok I

Tom Livingstone, Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar recently became the first climbers to summit Latok I (7145m) from the north side, climbing most of the fabled North Ridge before traversing to the south side of the mountain where they continued to the top. Upon returning home, Livingstone shared details about their ascent and what it was like to watch from base camp as the helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov unfolded. Meanwhile, statements from Gukov after the rescue indicate that he and Sergey Glazunov likely reached a new high point on the North Ridge.

Tim Auger as a young man. [Photo] Gord Irwin

Remembering Tim Auger

Tim Auger died on August 9, 2018, in Banff, Alberta, at age 72. The following story is an excerpt from a feature by Brandon Pullan titled “Homage” that appeared in Alpinist 42. Auger was an influential Canadian climber who served Parks Canada for approximately three decades. One of his most famous first ascents was the University Wall on the Chief at Squamish with Dan Tate, Glenn Woodsworth and Hamish Mutch in 1965-66.

The Askari Aviation helicopter landing on Nanga Parbat. [Photo] Courtesy of Denis Urubko

A retrospective on the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, the heroic rescue and the logistical and financial challenges of helicopter operations in Pakistan

Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz completed the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in alpine style on January 25, but they got into trouble on the descent as a storm was building. What unfolded over the next several days became a demonstration of heroism and solidarity in the international mountain community, as people from different nations worked together to try to help the stranded climbers. It also raised questions about modern rescues in remote mountains–about the limits of possibilities; about best practices in a digital and increasingly technological age; and about disparities between which groups of people receive the most help.

[Photo] Anna Piunova

#AlpinistCommunityProject Flashback: Anna Piunova

From October 16-22, 2016, Anna Piunova shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about some of her travels while working as the editor for Mountain.RU. Piunova recently helped coordinate a dramatic helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov, who was stranded for a week at 6200 meters on the North Ridge of Latok I in Pakistan after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling.

Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet on the summit ridge of Nuptse, en route to completing the first ascent of the South Face (WI6 M5+, 2200m). The climb was selected for a Piolet d'Or.

Four climbs and one person to be recognized at 2018 Piolets d’Or in Ladek, Poland

Out of 58 climbs on the list of “significant ascents” in 2017, the Piolets d’Or committee has announced three climbs and two special mentions to be recognized at the upcoming 2018 award ceremony, which will be held outside of France–at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland–for the first time in the ceremony’s history. The event is scheduled for September 20-23. The honorees are Marek Holecek, Zdenek Hak, Kazuya Hiraide, Kenro Nakajima, Frederic Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet, Helias Millerioux, Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert Chase, Jason Thompson and Alex Honnold.