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From right to left: Joe Hamilton, May Ang and Charles Futoran pitch in to help the Bay Area Climbers Coalition maintain and clean up Indian Rock Park, in Berkeley, California. [Photo] Andrea Laue/andrealaue.com

Through local stewardship and civic engagement, climbers protect places for all

Land managers and climbers have been known to have conflicting interests at times, but local climbing coalitions across the country—such as the Bay Area Climbers Coalition and Salt Lake Climber Alliance, among others—have helped organize climbers into a group of allies who can make a great difference when it comes to advocating for public land, from the grass-roots, to the national level. Laura Booth and Andrea Laue take a closer look at how we can work together as local stewards or our natural resources.

William Coolidge with his aunt, Meta Brevoort, their guides Christian Almer (far left) and Ulrich Almer (Christian's son, second left,) and dog Tschingel, circa 1874. [Photo] Courtesy of the Alpine Club

Marguerite ‘Meta’ Claudia Brevoort: 1825-1876

In 1870, Marguerite ‘Meta’ Claudia Brevoort attempted to become the first climber, male or female, to stand atop the highest point of la Meije, one of the last great unclimbed Alps in the Massif des Ecrins in France. In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 59, Associate Editor Paula Wright relates the adventurous life of Brevoort, her nephew William Coolidge, and their dog, Tschingel, whose list of Alpine summits earned her an honorary membership in the exclusive Alpine Club.

[Photo] Derek Franz

The Moth

In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 59, Marc-Andre Leclerc considers a dead moth in the snow as he begins a risky ascent below looming cornices.

The world-class climbing destination of Indian Creek, Utah, is part of Bears Ears National Monument. Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke has suggested the possibility of shrinking the monument and submitted his final recommendation to President Donald Trump today, but the details of that recommendation have yet to be released. [Photo] Derek Franz

Interior Secretary concludes review of national monuments but details have yet to be released

Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke quietly submitted his recommendations to President Donald Trump today on whether to alter, reduce or rescind several national monuments, including Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante Monuments in Utah. Zinke issued an interim report in June in which he recommended that Bears Ears should be reduced, but he wouldn’t say by how much. He emphasized that it was only an interim report that may be subject to change in his final report. No details on his final recommendations have been released so far, however.

Alpinist Associate Editor and Podcast Host Paula Wright record in the sound booth. [Photo] Alpinist staff

Alpinist Magazine announces Alpinist Podcast season 1: The Voices Behind the Words

In collaboration with Dispatch Radio, Height of Land Publications is pleased to announce the Alpinist podcast, a series of episodes that take the stories Alpinist readers love to a new medium. Each season, the Alpinist podcast delivers fresh interviews and untold stories, humorous adventure tales and discussions of important issues in the climbing world today. Each episode is hosted by Associate Editor Paula Wright.

Gasherbrum I (8080m): Satisfaction (ED+ M7 WI5+ 70°, 3000m) is the second line from the left. [Image] Marek Holecek

Czech climbers realize ‘Satisfaction’ on Gasherbrum’s southwest face

Marek Holecek has returned to the southwest face of Gasherbrum I (8080) five times since 2009 in a bid to complete a route up the middle of the face through two rockbands. After enduring multiple epics–including the death of his longtime climbing partner in 2013, and a bad case of frostbite in 2016, in addition to other close calls and harrowing descents–Holecek, 43, finished the climb to the top of the mountain with fellow Czech climber Zdenek Hak, 37, at the end of July. From July 25 to August 1, they spent six days climbing and two on the descent. They named the route Satisfaction (ED+ M7 WI5+ 70°, 3000m).