![Climbers follow the aptly named route Beongae (5.10d, 123m) on Ulsanbawi, Seoraksan National Park, South Korea. [Photo] Choi Suk-mun](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/wfeature-a77-on-belay-2.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Haunted by Venus
For more than two decades, Choi Suk-mun has climbed around the world, including first ascents on giant Himalayan peaks; yet he remains haunted by a five-pitch rock route back home in South Korea.
![Olympic silver medalist Nathaniel Coleman climbs Wrist Rocket (V9), his favorite route in Little Cottonwood Canyon, which would be impacted by the proposed tram or expanded bus lanes that are being considered by the Utah Department of Transportation as preferred alternatives for future transit in the narrow canyon. [Photo] Tim Behuniak](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/little-cottonwood-canyon-1.jpg?resize=883%2C620&ssl=1)
Climbers rally against proposed tramway and expanded bus lanes in Utah’s Little Cottonwood Canyon
A big decision that was anticipated to be made this April has been pushed back to summer after the continued outpouring of comments regarding the future of Little Cottonwood Canyon just outside of Salt Lake City, Utah. The decision facing the Utah Department of Transportation is whether to proceed with one of two plans: build a massive tramway along the length of the canyon to serve the ski areas, or widen the road for expanded bus service. The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and other groups say those plans are too focused on the ski resorts during the winter and that there are other options that would better preserve the climbing and access to other parts of the canyon while protecting the natural environment and beauty of the area.
![Carlo Traversi places protection on Magic Line (5.14c), Yosemite Valley. [Photo] Christian Adam / Black Diamond](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/carlo-traversi-magic-line-1.jpg?resize=800%2C620&ssl=1)
Carlo Traversi is first to have sent both Magic Line and Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite
Carlo Traversi has once again proven himself as one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world, with his recent redpoint of Yosemite’s Magic Line (5.14c) on February 27. Traversi is the fourth person to send the route, and the third to do it placing all the thin gear on lead. This ascent also makes him the only person to have sent both Magic Line and Meltdown, another thin crack in Yosemite (first climbed by Beth Rodden in 2008) that has earned the grade of 5.14c.
![Katie Ives, on the North Face (the common name for the northwest face) of Gothics, Adirondacks. [Photo] Kevin B. MacKenzie](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a77-sharp-end-1.jpg?resize=900%2C620&ssl=1)
Of Thin Ice
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 77–which is now on newsstands and in our online store–Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives looks back on autumn climbs and ponders the allure and haunting symbolism of early season ice.
American Alpine Club’s Annual Award and Benefit Gala resumes in-person event in Denver after two-year hiatus
The American Alpine Club’s Annual Award and Benefit Gala is returning to an in-person event in Denver, Colorado, on Saturday, March 26, but people will still have the option to tune in online this year. Jordan Cannon and Mark Hudon are this year’s keynote speakers, and the awardees are Pat Ament, Sean Bailey, Natalia Grossman, John Heilprin, John Kascenska, David Nyman, Rick Reese and Joe Terravecchia. Arlene Blum and Steve Roper are receiving honorary AAC memberships.
Russian and Ukrainian climbers speak out against the invasion of Ukraine
Since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine on February 24, some Russian climbers have publicly spoken out against their country’s aggression. In a country known for reprisals against people who openly oppose President Vladimir Putin’s regime, this act involves personal risk. Meanwhile Ukrainian climbers confront the attacks on their country. The Russian climbing website Mountain.RU posted an open letter, which hundreds of people had signed by March 2 and other professional climbers have shared statements of their own.
![Outline of Ukraine, based on a UN map of Ukraine and the Flag of Ukraine. [Image] Courtesy of the United Nations Cartographic Section; Alex Khristov, Wikimedia](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/ukraine-flag.png?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
International climbing organizations cancel events in Russia in response to the country’s invasion of Ukraine
In response to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine on February 24, the International Olympic Committee called for the cancellation of all sporting events that were scheduled in Russia and Belarus. In turn, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) have cancelled the World Cup sport and ice climbing competitions slated to take place in March and April.
![Charles Dubouloz summits the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses after soloing Rolling Stones (5.10 A3, or M8, 1100m) over six days in January. [Photo] Seb Montaz Studio (@sebmontazstudio)](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/rolling-stones-solo-winter-ascent-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Charles Dubouloz completes the first solo winter ascent of Rolling Stones on the Grandes Jorasses
From January 13 to 18, Charles Dubouloz completed what is likely the first solo winter ascent of Rolling Stones (5.10 A3, or M8, 1100m) a rarely repeated route on the fabled north face of the Grandes Jorasses above Chamonix, France. He spent six days with five bivies on the wall, pressing on through strong winds and low temperatures of -30°C (-22°F), sustaining some frostbite to a big toe.
A Beginner’s Guide to Suffering
In this feature story from The Climbing Life section of Alpinist 76–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–Brandon Blackburn considers some influences that inspired him to climb and seek self validation through risk and suffering. He writes: “The most significant catalyst for my own shift in perspective on suffering came, as it sometimes does, after an injury.”
![With different modes and color settings, the BioLite AlpenGlow Lantern was able to match the mood to this sunset in the Eastern Sierra (Mono/Monache and Paiute/Numu land). [Photo] Miya Tsudome](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/biolite-alpenglow-lanterns-1-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
BioLite AlpenGlow Lanterns: Functional mood lighting for your tent, car or campsite
Mountain Standards Gear Review: Miya Tsudome is a former rock climbing guide who now makes a living as a photographer, and she’s also a van-life veteran who can appreciate camping accessories like the BioLite AlpenGlow Lanterns. She writes: “After I’ve lived with [them] for over six months now, [they have] definitely improved my camping game…. Each lamp features eight light modes: cool white, warm white, single color, multi-color, and candle flicker. There are also some fun options if you shake the lamp in each mode.” Four stars