C.A.M.P. Coral Harness: Light is Right
As a lightweight gear freak (and an aging alpinist), I am always looking for the latest and greatest in the ultralight world.
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Mountain Standards Award
Julbo Race Sunglasses: Built for Speed
As part of Julbo’s Speed Series the Race is a great choice for high-speed activities such as skiing, biking, running and for windy mountain conditions.
Nau Base2 Longsleeve Snap: Nau…But Not Forever
It’s the softest and nicest feeling base layer I’ve donned to date, has a subtle urban flair to it, and the more I found out about the company the more excited I became by what they described as their “business activism”.
Montbell Permafrost Down Parka: Little Red Jacket That Could
I also fall fate to being one of the most cold-challenged alpine guides in the Canadian Rockies, so when given the opportunity to test the MontBell Permafrost Down Parka I couldn’t really refuse!
La Sportiva Batura Boots: Comfort and Performance
La Sportiva has created another fine technical boot with the new Batura. I’ve used the Nuptse in the Himalaya, the Nepal Top all over the North Cascades and Ouray, the Trango Ice Evo and Women’s Trango Evo GTX in Patagonia and at home in the San Juans. I’ve been happy with all of these La Sportiva models, which tend to fit narrow feet, like mine, especially well. I’m psyched on the new Batura because it fills the gap between the warmth of the Nuptse, as a quasi-double boot, and the technical performance of the Nepal Top or Evo. Its weight-to-warmth ratio sets it apart from the pack of other boots I’ve used over the years.
Exped Downmat 9: For a Solid Night’s Sleep
After a big session on the Torres in Patagonia last winter I came back to advanced base camp and found my body seizing up from raw abuse. I had never used an Exped Downmat 9 (distributed in North America by Outdoor Research), but I snagged one out of a friend’s tent and collapsed into a solid night’s sleep. As soon as I woke up I was jealous of my buddy’s pad and swore I’d never do another expedition without one. Since then, the Downmat 9 has allowed me to have sweet dreams while camped on the rock slabs in the Bugaboos, as well as some winter roadside bivies along the Icefields Parkway in the cold Canadian Rockies.
Black Diamond Whippet Self Arrest Ski Pole: Added Security
Having spent numerous ski tours climbing and skiing steep, bulletproof terrain, I found myself wanting some added security in the often-precarious ski mountaineering environment. The latest model of the Black Diamond Whippet provided what I was looking for.
Petzl Dartwin Crampons: Serious about Steep
In December I headed down to Ouray, Colorado’s Ice Park, to begin testing the Petzl Dartwin crampons. With all kinds of immediate climbing to be had, Ouray seemed the best place to determine effectiveness on everything from low-angle ice to crazy mixed testpieces…
JetBoil PCS: Radically Improved Fuel Efficiency
A principal function of a climber’s stove is to melt snow and ice, producing drinkable water. Hot soup, coffee and the occasional hot water bottle are perks, but on long trips fuel weight adds up. For Alaska I budget 48 ounces per day for a group of six–about 8 pounds of fuel each for a three-week expedition. While toiling with such donkeywork I imagine the ideal stove, where every calorie of fuel burned produces the maximum amount of water. This process, called heat transfer efficiency, inspired the design of the Jetboil Personal Cooking System (PCS).
Arc’teryx R-320 Harness: Everything You Want, Nothing You Don’t
“It’s the single piece of gear I’m excited about buying this year,” said Nic, my gearhead friend, about the new line of Arc’teryx harnesses. It was an unusual comment–the thought of controlled spending–for someone who has a steady job and climbs or skis every day. Nevertheless, I told Nic he had his priorities straight. If I had to recommend a single climbing upgrade for 2008, I’d suggest the Arc’teryx R-320 harness I’ve been testing for the past six months. It has everything I want in a harness–and nothing I don’t.