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From left to right: Danika Gilbert, David Roberts, Doug Chabot and Jeff Jackson. [Image] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club announces 2018 Excellence in Climbing award recipients

Doug Chabot, Danika Gilbert, David Roberts and Jeff Jackson are to be honored at the American Alpine Club’s Excellence in Climbing Celebration in Denver on June 2. Tickets are now on sale for the event, which includes a dinner, auctions, live music and more, with all proceeds supporting the AAC Library and the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum.

Tom Livingstone on the summit ridge of Jezebel after climbing a new route-- Fun or Fear (AI 6 R M6+, 90 degrees, ca. 1200m)--up the mountain's east face with Uisdean Hawthorn. [Photo] Uisdean Hawthorn

British climbers find ‘Fun or Fear’ in Alaska on Jezebel’s east face after attempting north face

Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn went to Alaska’s Revelation Range at the end of March, intent on trying a new route on Jezebel’s north face. After several runout pitches on poor snow, they reached a dead end: a giant chimney filled with vertical snow that had no apparent cracks. Consequently, they abandoned their attempt and turned their attention to the mountain’s east face, where they completed a new route called Fun or Fear (AI 6 R M6+, 90 degrees, ca. 1200m) over two days in early April.

Summit group photo on Langdung (6357m), Nepal, December 20. [Photo] Courtesy Dawa Yangzum Sherpa

Sherpa team succeeds on first ascent of Langdung (6357m) in Nepal

A team of four Sherpa alpinists completed the first ascent of Langdung peak (6357m) in December 2017. Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, the team’s only woman and Nepal’s first IFMGA guide, was instrumental in organizing the ascent, which included Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Pasang Kidar Sherpa and Nima Tenji Sherpa. Here is the story of their climb and an interview with Dawa Yangzum about what it’s like to be a woman in the mountains.

Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award recipients announced

Anthony Marra, Jessica Kelley and Alex Gaber are the first recipients of the inaugural Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award, which was created to honor the legacy of the revered alpinist and soloist. These three adventurers plan to climb, bike, ski and surf in New Zealand, Alaska and the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

David Allfrey, Kieran Brownie and Paul McSorley's route, El Abrazo de la Serpiente (Embrace of the Serpent; V 5.11c R/X 660m), on Cerro Pajarito is shown in red, as seen from Cerro Diablo. [Photo] Paul McSorley

A sweltering, runout adventure on Colombia’s Cerro Pajarito

On February 1, Dave Allfrey, Kieran Brownie and Paul McSorley completed a new route up the unclimbed northwest face of Cerro Pajarito in the Cerros de Mavecure in Guainia, Colombia. El Abrazo de la Serpiente (Embrace of the Serpent; V 5.11c R/X 660m) was established ground up, onsight, over two trips. The rainforest heat was the crux.

Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell and John Long after the first one-day ascent of the Nose in 1975. [Photo] Courtesy of StoneMastersPress

Climbing legend Jim ‘the Bird’ Bridwell dies at age 73

Jim Bridwell died this morning, February 16, in Palm Springs, California, after months of suffering from illness. He was 73. Nicknamed “the Bird,” Bridwell has been an icon of American climbing for decades. He arrived in Yosemite as a wide-eyed 17-year-old and learned from the foremost climbers of the day, including Royal Robbins, Layton Kor (for whom he later named his son), Chuck Pratt and Frank Sacherer. He eventually mentored the next generation of climbing legends such as John Long, John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Billy Westbay and countless others. Bridwell was known for ingenuity as well as climbing prowess.