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Overview of Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll's solo Moonwalk Traverse (Fitz Roy massif, south to north: 5.11, 50° snow/ice, 4000m). [Image] Courtesy of Rolando Garibotti, PatagoniaVertical.com

Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll about his solo traverse of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy massif (the Moonwalk Traverse)

From February 5 to 10, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll soloed Patagonia’s Fitz Roy massif. It was only the second time the technical, 5+ kilometer ridgeline has been traversed since Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold pulled it off in 2014, and O’Driscoll climbed it in the opposite direction, south to north. He dubbed his version the Moonwalk Traverse (5.11, 50° snow/ice, 4,000m).

K2 (8611m) is pictured here in summer. The Abruzzi Spur—the route used by all the expeditions this winter—follows the right-hand skyline. [Photo] Svy123, Wikimedia Commons

JP Mohr Prieto, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri are missing, presumed dead on K2

Since the 10-person team of Nepali climbers completed the first winter ascent of K2 (8611m) on January 16, there have been two confirmed deaths and three other climbers have gone missing on the mountain. Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria) and Sergi Mingote (Spain) died from falls while descending from lower camps, on February 5 and January 16, respectively. Meanwhile Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto (Chile), Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan) and John Snorri Sigurjonsson (Iceland) have been missing since February 5, when they were last seen near the Bottleneck at approximately 8200 meters. They are presumed dead. So far there have been multiple helicopter searches while search teams on foot have been halted by adverse weather.

Cesare Maestri [Photo] Courtesy of Giulio Malfer

Remembering Cesare Maestri (1929-2021)

Cesare Maestri, one of the most legendary figures in climbing history, died January 19 at age 91. Many of the most famous questions surrounding his career have to do with a certain tower in Patagonia–Cerro Torre–and his expeditions to its walls in 1959 and 1970. Italian climbing historian Luca Signorelli helps us remember other parts of the life of the man known as the “Spider of the Dolomites.”

Ron Kauk on top of Uli Biaho, 1979. [Photo] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club

American Alpine Club’s 2021 Benefit Gala and Awards will be a free virtual event

As the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic continues, the American Alpine Club’s Annual Benefit Gala and award presentation will once again be held virtually on February 20. The good news is that for the first time ever this will allow anyone with an Internet connection to have free access to the speeches and award presentations with some of climbing’s biggest names. This year’s honorees are Ron Kauk, Kai Lightner, Joanne and Jorge Urioste, author and co-founder of Gripped Magazine David Smart, former AAC president Glenn Porzak, Congressman Raul Grijalva, and AAC volunteers Rick Merritt and Nancy Savickas. The online event will also include many special guests, including Tommy Caldwell, Meagan Martin, Kilian Jornet, Emily Harrington and more.

K2 (8611m) as seen in summer. The Abruzzi Spur--the route of the first ascent by Italians in 1954 and the route used for the first winter ascent on January 16, 2021, by 10 Nepali climbers--follows the right-hand skyline. [Photo] Svy123, Wikimedia Commons

First winter ascent of K2: 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers summit together

Just yesterday, K2 (8611) was the last of the 14 8000-meter peaks on Earth that had yet to be climbed in winter. No more. At 5 p.m. January 16, a group of 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers from separate expeditions ascended the last few meters to the summit together as one. Summiting team members include Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja Pun Magar, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

K2 (8611m) looms above base camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier. [Photo] Alex Gavan

Four expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of K2: Alex Gavan discusses current efforts

There are currently four expeditions laboring for the first winter ascent of K2 (8611m), which is the last 8000-meter peak yet to be climbed in the coldest season. As of January 12, ropes have been fixed to Camp 3, just above 7300 meters, but that camp has yet to be fully established and recent high winds have destroyed and scattered gear at the lower camps. In this interview with Alpinist, Alex Gavan gives readers his perspective on how things are going on the mountain.

Newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert on their new route Wolke 7 (aka Cloud 9: 5.13b, 380m), on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl, Reiteralm, Austria. [Photo] Klaus Fengler

Luka Lindic and Ines Papert find big new routes close to home in Austria

After newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert canceled their Alaska expedition this past summer because of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, they reconsidered what adventures they might find close to their home. The result was two first ascents of long routes–the 12-pitch Wolke 7 (aka Cloud Nine, 5.13b, 380m) on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl near Reiteralm, and in late November, a mixed alpine route on the north face of Sagwand Spitze in Valsertal, which they named Limited in Freedom (AI6 M6, 800m).

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An apology from Alpinist

After Alpinist 72 went to press, we found that reproductions we had printed of historical images from a 1970s-era magazine appeared to contain some offensive and anti-LGBTQA+ writing. As a result of lapses in communication, caused in part by struggles to adapt to a remote workflow during the pandemic, no one from our editorial staff had reviewed those images before we went to press, and we were unaware of the content of the words (which none of the staff had read). We sincerely regret our oversight in printing these images, and apologize for the harm they may have caused. We are taking steps to ensure that this kind of oversight will not occur again in the future.