![El Hermano (ca. 4,500), Chile. In 2014 Libby Sauter's team mostly followed the sun-shadow line, and then cut to the right a few hundred feet from the top. [Photo] Doug Tompkins](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/beyond-the-dusk-1-900x620.jpg)
Beyond the Dusk: El Hermano, Andes, Chile
After the death of her brother Michael in June 2012, Suzanne Ybarra noticed a reference to a mysterious “El Hermano” amid his files, along with… Read More »Beyond the Dusk: El Hermano, Andes, Chile
![The red line marks the route and camps of Moveable Feast (ED2 M7 WI5 5c A3, 1400m) on Thalay Sagar (6904m), India. [Photo] Courtesy of Dmitry Golovchenko and Mountain.RU.](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/thalay-sagar-moveable-feast-1-1-930x620.jpg)
Russians win Golden Axe for Moveable Feast on Thalay Sagar
The golden trio of Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov score another Russian Golden Axe for their alpine-style first ascent of Moveable Feast (ED2… Read More »Russians win Golden Axe for Moveable Feast on Thalay Sagar
Freedom in the Hills
For decades, female alpinists have made extraordinary ascents from remote big walls to storm-swept peaks. In an article from Alpinist 52 (Winter 2015), Charlotte Austin explored… Read More »Freedom in the Hills
![The Bond: Survival of Denali and Mount Huntington, by Simon McCartney. [Photo] Courtesy of Mountaineers Books](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/the-bond-1-930x620.jpg)
Book Review: Simon McCartney’s ‘The Bond’
Rick Accomazzo reviews Simon McCartney’s book, The Bond. Published earlier this year, The Bond received the 2016 Banff Mountain and Wilderness Literature Non-Fiction Award, as… Read More »Book Review: Simon McCartney’s ‘The Bond’
![Andrew Boyd climbs Flight of the Challenger (5.12c) in Squamish, British Columbia, circa mid-1990s. [Photo] Rich Wheater](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/andrew-boyd-1-930x620.jpg)
The Vision of Andrew Boyd
Drew Copeland considers how Andrew Boyd has quietly influenced the Squamish climbing scene in the last twenty years with his bold first free ascents and… Read More »The Vision of Andrew Boyd
Public Lands and the Future of Advocacy: An Interview with Brady Robinson (Part I in an Interview Series)
On November 16, 2016, the Access Fund released a statement in response to the outcome of the U.S. presidential election, “What Will the Trump Administration… Read More »Public Lands and the Future of Advocacy: An Interview with Brady Robinson (Part I in an Interview Series)
![Mike Lewis begins the roof pitch on Vertigo (5.11b) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. [Photo] Slava Lototskyy](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/tenaya-ra-1-1-930x620.jpg)
Tenaya Ra: A true ‘all-around performance shoe’
Mike Lewis finds that the Tenaya Ra has everything he looks for in a climbing shoe, including a great out-of-the-box fit that doesn’t require a… Read More »Tenaya Ra: A true ‘all-around performance shoe’
The Shining Mountains
Popular books recount the early days of Canadian mountaineering as a story of epic discoveries. In this story from Alpinist 50, historians Zac Robinson and… Read More »The Shining Mountains
![[Photo] Tyler Roemer](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/xbuffalo-soldiers-in-the-cavalrymans-930x620.jpg.pagespeed.ic.uTWMNgC59y.jpg)
Buffalo Soldiers in the Cavalryman’s Paradise
Yosemite National Park Ranger Shelton Johnson explores “the pitch of the wild” for the Buffalo Soldiers on patrol in Yosemite at the turn of the… Read More »Buffalo Soldiers in the Cavalryman’s Paradise
![Jacopo Larcher climbs The Nipple pitch (5.13d) on Zodiac (VI 5.13d) at sunset. [Photo] Francois Lebeau and Black Diamond Equipment](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/zodiac-free-1-930x620.jpg)
Zangerl and Larcher make the third free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher recently made the third free ascent of Zodiac (VI 5.13d) on El Capitan after a 13-year period in which no… Read More »Zangerl and Larcher make the third free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan
![Jim Detterline in his element on the upper section of Kiener's Route on the East Face of Longs Peak (14,259'), July 2010. [Photo] Lisa Foster](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/detterline-1.jpg)
Jim Detterline touched many lives as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park
Jim Detterline participated in more than 1,200 rescues in his long career as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park. He was well loved… Read More »Jim Detterline touched many lives as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park
![Peter Holben leads Country Club Crack (5.11b/c) at Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon, Colorado, in one 150-foot pitch. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/dragon-cams-1-1-930x620.jpg)
Updated DMM Dragon cams: Stable, easy to place and clean
Chris Van Leuven compares the new DMM Dragon cams to other brands and finds he likes to mix and match for optimal weight and size-runs,… Read More »Updated DMM Dragon cams: Stable, easy to place and clean