![Leading on unexplored terrain on the east face of Caliban in Alaska’s Arrigetch Range. Gus Barber, Lang Van Dommelen and Chris Williams’ new route, which they are simply referring to as the East Face for now, is a 2,500-foot Grade IV+ 5.11. [Photo] Lang Van Dommelen](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/caliban-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Gus Barber, Lang Van Dommelen and Chris Williams recently established a 2,500-foot first ascent of a Grade IV+ 5.11 on the east face of Caliban (ca. 6,400′) in Arrigetch Peaks in Gates of the Arctic National Park.
![Tim Auger as a young man. [Photo] Gord Irwin](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/tim-auger-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Tim Auger died on August 9, 2018, in Banff, Alberta, at age 72. The following story is an excerpt from a feature by Brandon Pullan titled “Homage” that appeared in Alpinist 42. Auger was an influential Canadian climber who served Parks Canada for approximately three decades. One of his most famous first ascents was the University Wall on the Chief at Squamish with Dan Tate, Glenn Woodsworth and Hamish Mutch in 1965-66.
![Latok I (7145m). The North Ridge is the prominent line right of center. [Photo] Courtesy of Mountain.RU](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/latok-rescue-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C445&ssl=1)
After 40 years of thwarted attempts, the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) has been climbed by Slovenian climbers Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar, and British climber Tom Livingstone.
![The Hodgson survey map of 1823. Just northwest of the region labeled as Juwahir near the horizontal tear across the middle of the map, Peak XIV (Nanda Devi) appears marked as A No. 2, 25,580 ft. [Photo] Courtesy of the PAHAR Mountains of Central Asia Digital Dataset](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a62-mp-essay-highest-mtn-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 62, Stewart Weaver documents the early mapping of Nanda Devi and the initial belief that it was the highest mountain in the world.
![The Askari Aviation helicopter landing on Nanga Parbat. [Photo] Courtesy of Denis Urubko](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/pakistan-rescues-1.jpeg?resize=930%2C578&ssl=1)
Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz completed the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in alpine style on January 25, but they got into trouble on the descent as a storm was building. What unfolded over the next several days became a demonstration of heroism and solidarity in the international mountain community, as people from different nations worked together to try to help the stranded climbers. It also raised questions about modern rescues in remote mountains–about the limits of possibilities; about best practices in a digital and increasingly technological age; and about disparities between which groups of people receive the most help.
Out of 58 climbs on the list of “significant ascents” in 2017, the Piolets d’Or committee has announced three climbs and two special mentions to be recognized at the upcoming 2018 award ceremony, which will be held outside of France–at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland–for the first time in the ceremony’s history. The event is scheduled for September 20-23. The honorees are Marek Holecek, Zdenek Hak, Kazuya Hiraide, Kenro Nakajima, Frederic Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet, Helias Millerioux, Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert Chase, Jason Thompson and Alex Honnold.
![[Photo] Anna Piunova](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/anna-piunova-acp-1.jpg?resize=899%2C620&ssl=1)
From October 16-22, 2016, Anna Piunova shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about some of her travels while working as the editor for Mountain.RU. Piunova recently helped coordinate a dramatic helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov, who was stranded for a week at 6200 meters on the North Ridge of Latok I in Pakistan after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling.
![The La Sportiva TX4 Mid was a great, lightweight option for the hike to the top of Saint Vrain Mountain (12,162') in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Visible in the background, from left to right, are Chiefs Head, Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker. [Photo] Mandi Franz](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/la-sportiva-tx4-mid-1-1.jpg?resize=824%2C518&ssl=1)
The La Sportiva TX4 Mid boots are described by the company as an “access boot designed to excel in tricky, technical terrain.” Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz finds that the feather-light boots live up to that classification but are not ideal for weak or injured feet that need more support. Four stars.
![The North Ridge of Latok I with Alexander Gukov's position marked in red, where helicopters reached him July 31. [Photo] Courtesy of Mountain.RU](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/latok-rescue-folo-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Alexander Gukov, 42, is safe after spending nearly a full seven days at 6200 meters stuck on the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan. He was lifted from the mountain by a longline helicopter operation.
![Brittany Goris plugs small gear on the 5.13c/d pitch of City Park, Index, Washington. [Photo] Truc Allen](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/brittany-goris-city-park.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
On July 10, Brittany Goris became the first woman and sixth person to free climb the storied first pitch of City Park, which has a reputation as one of the hardest trad lines in the state at 5.13c/d. Goris, 25, was also the third person to place all gear on lead.
