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Emily Harrington leading the Golden Desert pitch (5.13a) near the top of El Capitan. [Photo] Jon Glassberg, Louder Than 11

Emily Harrington becomes first woman to send El Capitan’s Golden Gate in a day

Late on November 4, Emily Harrington climbed over the lip of El Capitan (Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La) in the dark; she’d free climbed all 41 pitches of Golden Gate (5.13b, 3,000′) in 21 hours, 13 minutes and 51 seconds, becoming the fourth woman to free climb El Cap in a day, and the fourth person (and first woman) to free climb Golden Gate in a day. She succeeded in spite of a sideways fall near the top that left her with a bloody head wound–and after a fall during an attempt in 2019 that sent her to the hospital. “I pulled over the final lip at 10:30 p.m. in disbelief….” She wrote on Instagram.

Priti and Jeff Wright atop K6 Central (7100m). [Photo] Priti and Jeff Wright collection

Priti and Jeff Wright complete the first ascent of K6 Central (7100m)

Early last month, a Jeff and Priti Wright, a husband-wife team from Seattle, Washington, completed the third ascent of K6 West (7040m) and the first ascent of K6 Central (7100m) on October 8 and 9, respectively, and in alpine style. They returned the way they came: back up and over K6 West. The peaks are in the Pakistan-administered side of the Karakoram Range.

The Pearly Gates on Mt. Hood. [Photo] Maurico Portillo collection

Meditations of a Dreamer

We’re sharing this story early from the upcoming issue of Alpinist 72 because it pertains to policies that may change depending on the outcome of the presidential election on November 3. In this story from the Climbing Life section of Alpinist 72, Mauricio Portillo writes of how he arrived in the US when he was only four, as his parents sought a “safer place to raise a family,” and how he and other “Dreamers” later benefited from the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals policy (DACA), which gave them a “temporary stay from being deported to countries we hardly remember.” Portillo grew up to become a high school teacher and a mountaineer, finding a sense of belonging on summits in the Pacific Northwest. Then in 2017 the Trump administration attempted to rescind the DACA program. In June 2020 the Supreme Court blocked the immediate canceling of the program, with Chief Justice John Roberts writing an opinion that the administration hadn’t followed the correct procedure. Since then, the administration has stopped accepting new applications to the program, has begun requiring current DACA recipients to apply to renew their protections from deportation annually instead of every two years and has delivered ambiguous messages about the overall fate of Dreamers. (In contrast, Democratic presidential candidate Joe Biden has promised, if elected, to “send a bill to Congress creating a clear roadmap to citizenship for Dreamers”). “There are approximately 800,000 Dreamers in the US today,” Portillo writes, “and our future often feels more uncertain than an alpine climb.”

The author takes a snack break off trail in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, Colorado, while wearing the Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ions. [Photo] Catherine Houston

Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion sunglasses: High quality with a big, bold style

As an IFMGA/AMGA guide, Mike Lewis spends a lot of time in the mountains in all conditions, rain, snow or shine, and he appreciates the value of quality eyewear, especially after LASIK surgery that left his eyes more sensitive to the elements. He’s been using the Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion Sunglasses that feature Dragon’s Lumalens technology and eco-friendly manufacturing. Lewis points out that the big, flashy style of the shades might not be for everyone, but the quality is all there. Five stars.

Mt. Forbes (3612m) with the East Face line (M4 WI3) climbed by Quentin Lindfield Roberts and Alik Berg drawn in red. [Photo] John Scurlock

Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg tick the first known ascent of Mt. Forbes’ East Face

The east face of Mt. Forbes (3612m) in the Canadian Rockies has presented a proud and obvious objective for generations of climbers, but it only just recently saw its first known ascent, on October 2, when Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg scampered up a direct line they are simply calling the East Face (M4 WI3+). The two made the round trip from October 1 to October 3. “People have been looking at that face for a long time,” Roberts told Alpinist. “It is just way back there and hard to gauge conditions…. There are a few faces like this left in the Rockies, but everything has to line up well if you want to do them!”


Editors, publishers form Outdoor Media for Inclusion to amplify diverse voices in outdoor media

A group of publishers and editors who oversee consumer and B2B outdoor media titles have formed the working group Outdoor Media for Inclusion (OM4I) to provide more opportunities for journalists and contributors who are Black, Indigenous, people of color, and members of other marginalized communities. OM4I aims to advance representation for people of color and others previously marginalized in the outdoor industry.

Pictured here at sunset, Dook'o'oosliid, or Humphreys Peak (12,633'), is the highest point in Arizona. Dook'o'oosliid was once part of a much larger stratovolcano that erupted hundreds of thousands of years ago. [Photo] Chuck Lawsen

Water is Life

In this Wired story from Alpinist 71–which is now available on some newsstands and in our online store–Dine climber Len Necefer journeys to the sacred peaks to find new ways to meld his ancestral cultural ceremonies and the mountain sports he loves while the world around him increasingly grapples with uncertainty and the threat of climate change.

A screenshot of the Climb the Hill panel that took place on Zoom, Wednesday, September 23. The discussion focused on public lands and the environment. Normally, Climb the Hill is an in-person event that takes place annually in Washington, DC. This year was a virtual gathering because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Clockwise, from top left to right, are professional climber Alex Honnold, gym owner Abby Dione, pro climber Tommy Caldwell, Congressman Joe Neguse, Access Fund Policy Director Erik Murdock, and American Sign Language interpreter Norma Villegas. [Photo] Derek Franz

Climb the Hill goes virtual: Zoom panels focus on public lands and DEI

As with so many other events around the world, the American Alpine Club and Access Fund’s annual Climb the Hill event was held virtually this week. Two discussion panels were open to the public on September 23 and 24. They focused on public lands and the environment; and on diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI). The featured panelists were Congressman Joe Neguse, and climbers Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Abby Dione, Meagan Martin, Margo Hayes, Kai Lighter and Katie Boue. Access Fund directors Chris Winter and Erik Murdock also participated, and American Sign Language interpreters were provided.