Skip to content
Home » Weekly Feature » Page 26

Weekly Feature

The Emperor Face of Mt. Robson (3959m), where Barry Blanchard, Eric Dumerac and Philippe Pellet made the first ascent of Infinite Patience (VI 5.9 M5 WI5, 2200m) in 2002. Fourteen years later, Marc-Andre Leclerc soloed it. [Photo] Jeffrey Pang

Off Route and Out of Time – The Sharp End, Alpinist 56

Back in April 2016, Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc described his solo of the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson: “My thoughts had reached a depth and clarity that I had never before experienced. The magic was real…. I was deeply content that I had not carried a watch with me to keep time…. I felt more at peace than I would have had I been counting my rate of kilometers per hour.” In the Editor’s Note for Alpinist 56, Katie Ives looks at the complex relationship that has long existed between evolving visions of mountaineering and the measurement of space and time.

Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand in Shuangqiao Valley, Siguiang Shan Mountains, Sichuan, China. [Photo] Andrew Burr

Edges of Maps: The Mountain Stories of Kyle Dempster

At the time of his disappearance on the Ogre II, Kyle Dempster was one of the most promising mountain storytellers of his generation. Alpinist editor-in-chief Katie Ives looks back at some of work, and wonders about the writer he might have become.

Antoine Moineville and Christian Laddy Ledergerber paddle in the North Atlantic Ocean. [Photo] Silvan Schuepbach

Metrophobia: A Thirst for Adventure

Doing a first ascent on a remote big wall was not enough for a team of three Swiss and two French men, who opted to sea kayak 170 kilometers with all their provisions just to reach the climb.

Left: Scott Adamson at the base of pitch 3 during the first ascent of The One Who Knocks WI6 M5 R/X, Reid's Peak, Uintas, Utah. Right: Kyle Dempster at the Superbowl Sunday BBQ at the top of Pitch 2 on the Great White Icicle, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. [Photos] Nathan Smith

Adamson, Dempster Remembered for Love, Tenacity

Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson were at home in wild and remote mountains. But their sense of passion and commitment spread beyond the bold routes they climbed to the people with whom they shared their lives. On Alpinist.com, Derek Franz writes about the disappearance of the two men on the north face of the Ogre II. Friends of the two climbers remember their tenacity and love.

Kyle Dempster on a rainy day in Salt Lake City. [Photo] Nathan Smith

In Memory of Kyle Dempster

On September 3, 2016, the search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson, missing on the Ogre II in Pakistan, was called off. Here, a friend and climbing partner Scott Robertson writes a tribute to Kyle. We will be working on more stories about Kyle and Scott in the weeks ahead.

Cirque of the Towers. [Photo] Doug Kofsky

Wind River Universe

Dick Dorworth reflects on the changes that the last forty-five years have brought to the Wind River Range: “On a clear day, the surface of Lonesome Lake reflects the sweeping silver walls of the Cirque of Towers, a glacier-polished mirror to the climber who cares (dares?) to gaze into it and to take those visions back to the larger world.”

Ellingwood Peak (13,052'), the most prominent in the photo, with Notch Pinnacle (12,720'+) to the immediate left and Not Notch Pinnacle (12,760'+) farther left. [Photo] Joe Kelsey

Last Unclimbed Wind River

Eminent chronicler of the Wind River Mountains Joe Kelsey searches for the “last Unclimbed Wind River” peak–a quest inspired by an episode with his climbing partner, Paul Horton, on an obscure and seemingly unvisited summit: “As Paul led toward a chimney on the final pitch, he let out an equivocal chuckle…. ‘What?’ ‘A piton.'”

Mitchell Peak (12,482'). [Photo] David Salisbury

My Big Scary First Ascent

Before she and Bev Johnson made the first female ascent of El Capitan, Sibylle Hechtel lead her first unclimbed big wall in the Wind Rivers: “Dick handed me our minimal gear, pointed,

and said, “Just head up that corner until you get to a good ledge, and set up a belay.’ I gulped.”

Bill Lindberg on Tower I Gully (IV AI 3+, 1,000'), Mt. Helen (13,620'). [Photo] Raymond G. Jacquot

Tower I Ice Couloir, Mt. Helen

Bill Lindberg and I are several pitches up a narrow couloir on the north side of Mt. Helen. A thick, even ribbon of white divides the tawny-grey granite walls that rise steeply above us on either side. The granular, late-season ice accepts the picks of our piolets and rigid crampon points perfectly. Thus far, the climb has been so straightforward that we might have rehearsed it ahead of time; we are both exhilarated to be moving rapidly on an unclimbed alpine line.” In 1971, two climbers put new alpine gear to the test on what was the first ascent of Mt. Helen’s now-classic ice couloir.