In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 94, Derek Franz considers the culture that produced Dean Potter after a four-part documentary about Potter’s life, titled “The Dark Wizard,” was released in April. The docuseries “provides a retrospective on his life and influence, and an occasion to consider a culture that celebrates risk-taking and rebellious, free-spirited characters,” Franz writes.
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 93, Derek Franz celebrates the humble value of small backwater places that can offer us much more than what meets the eye. He writes: “In recent months, a cluster of humble boulders near a small town where I grew up has given me solace. As a teenager I couldn’t wait to escape that quiet, dusty town. I was unaware of the boulders and so many other things nearby. Now, whenever I have a few hours on a clear ‘winter’ day, I drive half an hour to return to a place I once loathed…. I am searching for the line. That can be many things. On the rock, it is an enchainment of moves that flow together like music.”
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 92, Derek Franz writes of his experience climbing in the Swiss Alps with The North Face team last September and learning about everything that went into developing the Advanced Mountain Kit Summit Series 2.0.
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 91, Derek Franz considers recurring themes and the responsibilities of storytelling, and announces his trip to Nepal. He writes: “Storytelling is at its highest form when done in service to the bigger picture that goes beyond one person’s benefit; when the threads intertwine and connect, creating a fabric, a mosaic, a song, an ongoing conversation. At their best, stories are how we understand who we are, where we come from, where we are now, what we value or despise and where we might be going. At their worst, stories are lies we recite to ourselves and others—to hide unpleasant truths, elevate ourselves and bring others down…. Context gives depth to the perspective. Or negates it.”
[This Sharp End story originally appeared in Alpinist 90 (Summer 2025), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of our… Read More »Close to Home
Dawn Wall free in a day. There, I thought it, said it, wrote it. Someday it’s sure to happen, yes?
Séb Berthe agrees…. Saying, speaking, believing—these all make a thing that much closer to reality. Or, potentially, they only lead one deeper into rabbit holes of delusion. Fanciful, futuristic things are generally assumed to be delusion until they are made real by alchemists—people who maybe have to be at least a little bit mad to believe such possibilities in the first place.
Climbers constantly test themselves against delusion.
Any climber worth their salt must understand their relationship with ego. It affects not only the individual but also those around them, even the environment and future generations, a ring of ripple effects…. More and more people are entering the ‘sport’ with a different focus and philosophy. What they are seeking on the rocks and mountains is changing. As editor of this magazine, I am a cog in this industry. I see it as my job to remind us of our history, our original values and inspirations—the less tangible aspects of this activity that we love—and what stands to be lost if we allow ourselves to be swept up in the modern rabid thirst for more.
[This story originally appeared in Alpinist 87 (Autumn 2024), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of… Read More »Fabulous Roman Candles
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 86, Derek Franz contemplates the future and finds hope. He writes: “While digging through the Alpinist archive for research related to this issue, I happened upon articles whose words resonated not only with my current situation but with what today’s writers continue to express in different ways. They are reminders that we are not alone, that others have come before and survived whatever we find ourselves facing today. They emphasize greater truths that remain consistent despite all the upheaval we continue to witness in this modern age of technology, climate change and global conflict…. Rereading those stories by different people from different times and places, I noticed a more ancient story begin to emerge, as though one voice were speaking through multiple people across generations.”
