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Alan Rousseau

Aim For the Bushes (AI6 M6 X, 5,250) on the east face of Mt. Dickey, Ruth Gorge, Alaska. [Photo] Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau collection

New route on Mt. Dickey, Alaska: Aim For the Bushes

Over a three-day push from March 31 to April 2, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge. They named their line Aim For the Bushes (AI6 M6 X, 5,250′). Rousseau narrates their adventure.

The west face of Tengi Ragi Tau (ca. 6940m) with Release the Kraken (AI5 M5+, 1600m) drawn in red. Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva's three bivy sites are marked in blue near the beginning, middle and top of the upper rockband. [Photo] Alan Rousseau

Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva Release the Kraken on Tengi Ragi Tau’s west face

Alan Rousseau writes about the first ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau’s west face, which he completed with Tino Villanueva in mid-October. Explaining the name of their route, he writes, “The peak had eluded us for so long, I think we had made it out to be a bit of a mythical beast. For that reason, and for the wild upper snow features, we named our route Release the Kraken (AI5 M5+, 1600m).”

An overview of Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva's attempt at a route up Rungofarka's north face (center), their successful route up the north ridge (left), which they dubbed The T and A Show (VI M6 WI4+, 1200m), and their descent route (right). [Photo] Alan Rousseau

Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau establish The T&A Show on Rungofarka

From September 30 to October 4, Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau completed a long and technical new route on the north ridge of Rungofarka (6495m), a peak in the Zanskar Range that the Indian Mountaineering Foundation recently opened for permits. They named the route with a play on their names, The T&A Show (VI M6 WI4+, ca. 50 pitches, 1200m). Rousseau documents their experience in this trip report.