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Matt Van Biene: Chalten Portraits (Chapter 2)
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A few weeks ago, we published Matt Van Biene’s black-and-white portraits of climbers in El Chalten, Argentine Patagonia. This week we bring you chapter 2 of Biene’s project–this time with continuous scrolling–with his remaining images.
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Chapter 1: Big Reinhold, Little Reinhold
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Lion in Winter: Mt. Temple’s North Face
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They call the Canadian Rockies’ Mt. Temple the Eiger of North America. Both peaks offer sheer north faces with steep imposing headwalls that soar 1500 meters above the valleys below, both feature compact limestone, both are regularly subject to tempestuous weather that can appear out of seemingly calm skies. Perhaps most importantly, both are steeped in mystery, lore and ominous histories.
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Matt Van Biene: Chalten Portraits
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Recently, while browsing through Instagram, I noticed about a half dozen images by Matt Van Biene–climber portraits taken in El Chalten, Argentine Patagonia. The black-and-white portraits, shot very close to the climbers, caught my eye. I sent him a quick message stating that we were interested in showcasing his work on alpinist.com.
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The Question: The Direct East Face of Golgotha
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The Revelation Mountains, Alaska, during Clint Helander and Jason Stuckey’s first ascent of Apocalypse (9,345′) in April 2013. David Roberts noticed the distant range in 1966, while he was on an expedition to the Kitchatna Spires.
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John Price: Canadian Rockies Ice
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Photographer John Price has been climbing for the past six years and shooting photos for the past three.”I’ve been lucky to have photographic mentors in the Rockies,” he tells us.
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The Gift: Tahu Rutum, West Face, Karakoram, Pakistan
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“I always thought it that it looked like a Patagonian spire misplaced in Pakistan,” Dempster says.
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Carl Battreall: A Collection of Climbed and Unclimbed Alaska Peaks
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Photographer Carl Battreall shares his collection of Alaska’s climbed and unclimbed peaks. The photos in this collection are from his upcoming book, The Alaska Range, due out in spring 2016.
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The Cold Case: Mt. Herschel, East Face, Antarctica
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The unclimbed east face of Mt. Herschel (3355m), an objective that Sir Edmund Hillary once dreamed of, more than a decade after the first ascent of Mt. Everest.
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Sarah Uhl–Rear View Mountains
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“I’m self-taught, my friend” says illustrator Sarah Uhl over heavy static from the road on her way back to Carbondale, Colo. from Hood River, Ore. “I started making illustrations about a year ago.” Her work has appeared in the latest issue of Alpinist, various projects for The American Alpine Club, Mountain Flyer Magazine and on semi-rad’s tees.
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The Mysterious Case of Beka Brakai Chhok
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8000ers.com, historian Eberhard Jurgalski describes the uncertain elevations of Beka Brakai Chhok’s three peaks as “truly one of the most confusing subjects in the history of High Asian research.
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Unclimbed
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Nearly twelve years after Alpinist’s first “Unclimbed” feature, Kelly Cordes reminds readers that there are still plenty of vertical mysteries. Damien Gildea, Kyle Dempster, Tamostu Nakamura, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Harish Kapadia, Pat Deavoll and Clint Helander share a few examples.
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Interview with Reinhold Messner
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Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven sits down with legendary alpinist Reinhold Messner on February 2, 2015, to talk about rock climbing, high-altitude climbing, Messner’s castle and mountaineering museum, and his well-known climbing partner Peter Habeler.
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Free Mud
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Alpinist’s Digital Editor met with Stevie Haston at the 2015 Winter Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City to talk about his love for the Utah desert. As a follow-up to the interview, we’re republishing Haston’s account of completing the Titan’s first free ascent, via the 1,000-foot Sundevil Chimney (5.13a).
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Searching for Jensen
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Alpinist’s intern from last summer, Brad Rassler, goes on a quest to learn about fallen mountaineer, mathematician and pack designer Don Jensen.
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Kevin Jorgeson: The Last Day on the Dawn Wall
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Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven visits with Kevin Jorgeson at the Outdoor Retailer show on January 22 to discuss the last day of the Dawn Wall, Day 19, Jorgeson’s battle with the 5.12 flare on Pitch 29, and the final moments before reaching the top.
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Face Time with Wild Man Stevie Haston
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Alpinist sits down at the Outdoor Retailer trade show to interview Stevie Haston, the UK powerhouse known for his bold, standard-setting climbs across all genres, hair-raising desert-tower free ascents on rock barely more solid than mud and his blunt-spoken manner. Now living on the Maltese island of Gozo, Haston still whips out 1,500-pull-up training days to keep his edge.
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Bob Craig: Remembering the 1953 K2 Expedition
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Alpinist contributor Bob Craig passed away at age 90. He’s legendary for his role in the 1953 K2 expedition and the attempt to rescue team member Art Gilkey. The following story was originally published in Alpinist 37.
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Mike Dewey: The Art of Observation
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Longtime Yosemite climber, and mixed-medium artist Mike Dewey expresses his love for the walls and climbing community on canvas and stone.
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Video: Fitz Traverse
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Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold travel to Patagonia to find the limit of their capabilities, and “do the kind of stuff [they] see in Alpinist Magazine.”
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Video: Aid Turns Free on Mt. Hooker
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Inspired during a trip to Wyoming’s Wind River Range the previous season, David Allfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle returned to the Winds this August to free an A3 route on Mt. Hooker. Kyle Berkompas filmed their project.
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Slideshow: Unclimbed Big Walls of Siberia
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Inspired by a single photo, Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner visit unclimbed big walls in remote northeastern Russia. Pulling out moss clumps and excavating gear placements with a nut tool, the team established six new routes and, with their camera, captured the experience.
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Remembering Eric Bjornstad, Desert Rat of the Old School
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One desert icon remembers the life of another.
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Alpine-Style Attempts on the South Face of Nuptse
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Two Canadian alpinists dodge large avalanches on the storied South Face of Nuptse. None of their several attempts extends beyond half height on the massive alpine wall, but–through careful decision-making–they live to tell the story.
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Short Film: K6 West
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Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to Pakistan to climb K6 West. At the moment of their departure down the KKH, they learn of the massacre at Nanga Parbat base camp. Each is now faced with a decision. As Jesse returns home, Raphael and Ian continue with the trip and ultimately stand on the 7040m unclimbed summit.
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To Know
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In the final installment of our series of essays about climbing in the High Sierra’s Palisades group, Steve Porcella quests for the “remote, barren, trailless, treeless, oxygenless and peopleless,” where he finds out what it is to really know a mountain range.
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Back(side) Pain
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“Sixty-five Sierra routes that first summer; about a dozen the next, a fifth of them first ascents. Brutal-as-hell approaches with seventy-pound packs, decrepit knees and bad footwear. I blame Steve, but really, he and I were just the syringe plungers, and the Sierra Nevada was the heroin.”
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More than a Mountain
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Peter Croft ambles along “the local epicenter of sideways mountaineering”–the High Sierra’s Palisades–in his own Peter Croft kind of way.
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The Nature of Memory
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Joan Jensen searches through old boxes to uncover memories of her daring yet methodical soulmate, the late Don Jensen.
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Middle Palisade
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One tenacious historian relives the early days of Palisades climbing.
