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Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia
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In the early 1990’s Lowe struggled through a divorce, a failed business and deep remorse for neglecting his two-year-old daughter. Needing an escape from this emotional crisis, he made a solo pilgrimage to the Eiger’s Nordwand. When one of the world’s greatest climbers makes a solo winter attempt on the most legendary north face in the world, an extraordinary story is inevitable.
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Speed Series Part II: Sean Leary and Dean Potter
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Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “We’re always filled with the knowledge that if we fall, it’s a minimum 100-footer and probably way more. You’re going to kill your friend and probably mutilate or kill yourself.”
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Book Review: Recompense: Streams Summits and Reflections
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Irwin began writing when his father made him keep a journal on family vacations. As he grew older, writing became an increasingly important part of his life. He coupled this passion with a love of the outdoors, and it has taken him across North America and beyond. His travels are always under the banner of climbing, skiing, fly-fishing and, of course, writing.
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Speed Series Part I: Alex Honnold
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Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “It’s all super safe as long as no one falls.”
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Thoughts on the Denali Fee Hike
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The small minority of climbers seeking a difficult alpine experience on America’s highest peak will end up paying a steep fee along with the many climbers trudging up the West Buttress, an unfortunate side effect of the mountain’s prominence and popularity.
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Tinkering with the Guillotine
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“Mad Scientist” Matt Maddaloni rediscovers his passion for climbing through a quirky but surprisingly functional invention: the Anticam.
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2010 Mugs Stump Update: Success, Tragedy and Savage Peaks
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In 2010, the Mugs Stump Award recipients attempted an array of bold objectives, from first ascents on obscure peaks in Tibet and Greenland; to new routes on well-known faces in the Central Alaska Range. Whether teams ultimately reached success or failure, each enterprise was undertaken with the same style and audacity as the award’s namesake.
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Banff Mountain Festival: Top 5
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The Banff Mountain Festival offered a week jam-packed with films, presentations, special speakers, workshops, trade shows, book fairs and panel discussions. A few events were worth highlighting, however, and Alpinist brings you those in the form of “Top 5 Bests” from the Banff Mountain Festival.
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Kevin McLane’s Canadian Rock: What It Takes to Write a Guidebook
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Thirteen Hundred rock climbs. Seventy climbing areas. More than 800 photos and topos. In other words: a lot of work.
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Book Review: One Mountain Thousand Summits
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Freddie Wilkinson explores the 2008 climbing disaster on the Savage Mountain.
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On the Trails of the Glaciers
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Climber Fabiano Ventura brings awareness to receding glaciers in the Karakoram through new photographs, shot 100 years after those taken on early expeditions to the range.
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Climbing and Art
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Peter Beal grapples with ethics, beauty and the ever-evolving art of climbing.
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Reel Rock Film Tour: Boulder
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Reporting in from the Boulder premiere of the fifth annual Reel Rock Film Tour.
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Monte Sarmiento: Photos from Tierra del Fuego
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Ralf Gantzhorn presents 16 striking images from the top of the bottom of the world.
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Book Review: The Mountain Within
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It is reasonable to say at this point in history–now that popular climbing media has existed for decades–that there are climbing superstars: athletes that combine a definitive personality with difficult and stylistically charged climbs. Alexander Huber is certainly one of those superstars…
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The Warrior’s Way: Arno Ilgner Discusses Fear in Climbing
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In his quest to discover why some climbers are fearful and others brazen, Ilgner developed the Warrior’s Way, a program to help climbers become aware of–and deal with–their apprehensions.
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Book of Dreams
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Dozens of Yosemite Valley pioneers have been mailing a single book among them for months, gathering signatures to produce a unique retrospective and a way to raise money for Jim Bridwell.
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Pen, Paper and a Mountainside: Expedition Diaries from Mt. Logan
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Open the mountain journals of four climbers–John Evans, Jock Glidden, David Jones and Steve House–to find their past and future inspirations and motivations.
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Pros Raise Funds to Support Layton Kor
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For four days in May, Tommy Caldwell temporarily shelved his dreams of freeing Mescalito for a more important objective…
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Nakamura: Sichuan’s Most Outstanding Unclimbed Peaks
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Tamotsu Nakamura presents a list of the top 16 outstanding unclimbed summits in China’s West Sichuan Highlands.
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The Continuum Project: Zion
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Rob Pizem and Mike Anderson free their latest Zion route: Shake That Bear (5.12+ R, 11 pitches).
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Aaron Mulkey: Patriarch of Cody Ice
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Mulkey has spent many fruitless days trudging in his boots, hunting vast swaths of land and isolated canyons for ice that may not exist…
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Video: Ueli Steck Solos La Ginat
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Ueli Steck solos the Ginat route (ED: V M4+ 85 degrees, 1000m) on film.
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The Continuum Project: Elephant’s Perch
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Join Sarah Watson and Majka Burhardt on the classic Direct Beckey Route (V 5.11a), Elephant’s Perch, Sawtooth Range, Idaho.
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180 South: Conquerors of the Useless
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Inspired by a film from 1968, Jeff Johnson and Chris Malloy find their own way to Patagonia, learning the true meaning of adventure along the way.
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Adirondacks Lost and Found
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Matt McCormick presents a brief modern history of climbing in the Adirondacks, with photos by Dave Vuono.
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The Continuum Project: Lion’s Head
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Lion’s Head is a peaceful port village in Ontario, Canada surrounded by spectacular limestone cliffs…
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Smuggs: Everyman’s Ice Fest
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Alden Pellett climbs a new route, Bob Timmer awes the crowd, and a reporter gets terrorized at the fourth annual Smuggs Ice Bash.
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The Continuum Project: Icefall Brook
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Jon Walsh and Ian Welsted establish a beautiful new mixed line in Icefall Brook, a remote amphitheater of ice in British Columbia.
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WayPoint Namibia
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When a team of American climbers establishes Southern Crossing (V 5.11+, 1,300′) on the Brandberg in Namibia, their journey of understanding has just begun.