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K2 (8611m) looms above base camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier. [Photo] Alex Gavan

Four expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of K2: Alex Gavan discusses current efforts

There are currently four expeditions laboring for the first winter ascent of K2 (8611m), which is the last 8000-meter peak yet to be climbed in the coldest season. As of January 12, ropes have been fixed to Camp 3, just above 7300 meters, but that camp has yet to be fully established and recent high winds have destroyed and scattered gear at the lower camps. In this interview with Alpinist, Alex Gavan gives readers his perspective on how things are going on the mountain.

To Live: Fighting for Life on the Killer Mountain by Elisabeth Revol. Translated by Natalie Berry. Vertebrate Publishing, 2020. 154 pages. Hard cover, #24 (GBP). [Image] Courtesy Vertebrate Publishing

Elisabeth Revol’s book “To Live” is an ode to Tomasz Mackiewicz and Nanga Parbat

When Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz “Tomek” Mackiewicz reached the summit of Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat (8125m) on the evening of January 25, 2018, they had completed the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, and Revol became the first woman to summit the mountain in winter. Their ordeal was just beginning, however. Revol’s new book, “To Live: Fighting for Life on the Killer Mountain,” translated into English by Natalie Berry, sheds light on her dramatic rescue and the loss of Mackiewicz. Emily Hopcian reports that the book “is a deeply human account of the nightmare Revol endured…. It is a detailed exploration of that January 2018 expedition interwoven with fragments of Revol’s childhood in France; her introduction to and career in mountaineering; and her climbing partnership with Mackiewicz.”

Stories of Ice: Adventure, Commerce and Creativity on Canada's Glaciers by Lynn Martel. Rocky Mountain Books, 2020. 336 pages. Hardcover, $40 (CAN). [Image] Courtesy Rocky Mountain Books

Glaciers Abound in Lynn Martel’s new book, “Stories of Ice”

Sarah Boon reviews Lynn Martel’s latest book, “Stories of Ice: Adventure, Commerce and Creativity on Canada’s Glaciers,” which was published earlier this year. Boon describes the work as “a comprehensive look at how these features have shaped the ways people have traveled through and populated the land. Martel shows that we still have much to learn about the now-disappearing bodies of ice from the community of adventurers, entrepreneurs, scientists, and artists who have explored them.”

Newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert on their new route Wolke 7 (aka Cloud 9: 5.13b, 380m), on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl, Reiteralm, Austria. [Photo] Klaus Fengler

Luka Lindic and Ines Papert find big new routes close to home in Austria

After newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert canceled their Alaska expedition this past summer because of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, they reconsidered what adventures they might find close to their home. The result was two first ascents of long routes–the 12-pitch Wolke 7 (aka Cloud Nine, 5.13b, 380m) on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl near Reiteralm, and in late November, a mixed alpine route on the north face of Sagwand Spitze in Valsertal, which they named Limited in Freedom (AI6 M6, 800m).

The smooth trigger action and the sticky-rubber like traction of the soft alloy lobes are just two components that make the Alien Revolution a great choice for mountain missions. Dave Allfrey and Luke Holloway plug and play a few ridges south of Mt. Whitney (Tumanguya), California. [Photo] Tad McCrea

Fixe Ultralight Alien Revolution cams: Otherworldly friends to have on your rack

Tad McCrea used the Fixe Ultralight Alien Revolution cams on 20 big routes in the Sierra Nevada Range this past summer and he was very happy with their light weight and performance, especially for the Double Sling design that allowed him to carry less gear for extending placements. He did not find any significant drawbacks to the latest version of this long beloved cam . Five stars

[Illustration] Andreas Schmidt

And Then We Were Twelve

In 1990 alpinist Barry Blanchard found himself trapped in a blizzard high on Yexyexescen (Mt. Robson), the tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies–with eleven other climbers, two of whom were injured, and no certain way down. In this Full Value story from Alpinist 72–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–Blanchard tells the story of how they all miraculously survived.

The author wearing the Ombraz Classic sunglasses on a hike last spring. [Photo] Mandi Franz

Ombraz Sunglasses: “Armless” and highly functional

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz has been wearing the unusual “armless” Ombraz Sunglasses since last spring. Instead of the typical rigid arms that are on most glasses, they are worn with an integrated lanyard that keeps them around the face or allows them to hang around the neck. The glasses also pack flat, allowing for easy stowing. Franz reports that Ombraz are highly durable with quality Zeiss Optics lenses. They are comfortable to wear with a variety of helmets but are less fashionable than traditional sunglasses. Four stars.

[Photo] Satellite image courtesy of NASA

Tool Users: Modern Weather Forecasts

In this Tool Users story from Alpinist 72–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–Brandon Blackburn investigates one of the most paradigm-shifting tools of modern alpinism: accurate weather reports.

George Lowe, during the 1977 first ascent of the Lowe-Kennedy Route on the north face of Mt. Hunter (Begguya, 14,573'), Alaska Range. On an earlier attempt, Jeff Lowe fell near the sun-shadow line. [Photo] Michael Kennedy

Falling into Place

In this On Belay story from Alpinist 72–which is now on newsstands and in our online store–a young Michael Kennedy sets out in 1977 with two of his heroes, Jeff Lowe and George Lowe, on the Alaskan expedition that culminated in the first ascent of the famous Infinite Spur on Mt. Foraker/Sultana. Looking back on that summer, Kennedy recalls how the name of the route grew to represent “far more than the physical dimensions of the climb.”

Derek Franz stays relaxed wearing the Black Diamond Vision MIPS helmet while onsighting Rock Candy (5.12a), a thin slippery route on Independence Pass, Colorado. [Photo] Elizabeth Riley

Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that’s as light and effective as ever

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz has been wearing the Black Diamond Vision MIPS helmet on many climbs, from long multipitch routes in the Black Canyon to short bolted sport climbs. “Thanks to advancements in materials and design, helmets are now so light and low-profile that it’s harder to justify not wearing one, even at the sport crag,” he writes. “Weighing slightly more than half-a-pound…factor in the durability of the Black Diamond Vision MIPS, and you have light, comfortable head protection that will holdup throughout frequent use.” Five stars.