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The summit ridge of Manaslu (8163m), as featured in the 8000ers.com report. [Photo] Paulo Grobel

The Measure of a Mountain

Looking at the role of summits in climbing history, from the early days to twentieth-century discussions and more recent Himalayan news about inaccurate claims, Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives asks: What is the measure of a mountain?

Matt Cornell climbing Nutcracker (WI5+ M9, 5 pitches)--with a rope and partner--in Montana's Hyalite Canyon. [Photo] Nathan Norby

Matt Cornell free solos Hyalite Canyon testpiece, Nutcracker (M9 WI5+, 450′)

On February 15, Bozeman climber Matt Cornell, 25, free soloed Nutcracker (M9 WI5+, 5 pitches), in Montana’s Hyalite Canyon. Cornell’s solo of Nutcracker was a logical next step after years of soloing in Hyalite, where he began with the classic ice pillars for many seasons before moving on to harder mixed climbs such as Black Magic (5.9 WI5, 140′) and Come and Get it (M7, 165′). He rehearsed Nutcracker many times and cleaned loose rock before his solo, but he did not use tick marks or make any other enhancements to the route. He doesn’t own a car, so he was “riding the bike and hitching rides most days to get up to the canyon,” he said.

Bradley Briggs ascends broken terrain on the Coleman Glacier of Koma Kulshan (Mt. Baker), Washington. [Photo] Matthew Tangeman

The melting glaciers of Koma Kulshan

In this story that was commissioned as part of the Covering Climate Now campaign, Ilana Newman and photographer Matthew Tangeman document how melting glaciers have caused drastic changes to some popular climbing routes on Koma Kulshan (Mt. Baker) in Washington.

Climbing in Bears Ears National Monument, Ute (Nuu-agha-tuvu-pu) and Pueblo Territories. [Photo] courtesy of Ben Crawford/Access Fund

BLM management plan threatens Bears Ears National Monument while lawsuits continue

This year–2020–is anticipated to be the year for the long-awaited court ruling as to whether President Donald Trump’s reduction of Bears Ears National Monument in December 2017 was legal. There appears to be some hope for the people in favor of reinstating the former boundaries of the 1.35 million acre monument. But as the legal battle plays out, the Trump Administration has ordered the Bureau of Land Management to push ahead with a management plan for the greatly reduced monument, which critics say is “highly flawed.”

The famous Blue Bear outside the Colorado Convention Center, pictured on the first official day of the Winter Outdoor Retailer + Snow Show, Wednesday, January 29, 2020. [Photo] Derek Franz

Another Outdoor Retailer, another opportunity to call for political and social changes

As Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz prepares to attend Denver’s third Winter Outdoor Retailer + Snow Show, he reflects on the rise of conversations about politics and the environment at the biannual trade convention. A climate rally is planned for Friday afternoon at the conclusion of the show, and a recent update was also announced for the lawsuit defending the original designation of Bears Ears National Monument.

Following in the footsteps of the famous Cascade Range guidebook author Harvey Manning. [Photo] Katie Ives

In Search of Lost Peaks

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 68–which is currently on newsstands–Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives goes in search of a secluded alpine basin to retrace the steps of a famous guidebook author, Harvey Manning.

Bob Craig (left) and Dee Molenaar in Seattle, 2011. [Photo] John Scurlock

A Visit with Dee Molenaar (1918-2020)

Dee Molenaar died January 19 at age 101. In honor of his inspiring life, we are sharing a profile written by Michael Ybarra for the Climbing Life section of Alpinist 36 (Autumn 2011). Sadly, Ybarra preceded Molenaar in death, when he died in the summer of 2012 while climbing solo in California’s Sierra Nevada Range. Both men are dearly missed.