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Wayne Merry while engaged in Alaskan glacier mapping for the International Geophysical Year (IGY) in 1958. [Photo] Dick Long (Wayne Merry collection)

Wayne Merry (1931-2019): Yosemite legend, teacher and loving steward of wild places

Steve Grossman chronicles the adventurous life of Wayne Merry, who passed away at home in Atlin, British Columbia, early on October 30, 2019, after suffering from prostate cancer. He was 88. Merry completed the first ascent of the Nose on El Capitan with Warren Harding and George Whitmore in 1958. He went on to oversee the foundation of Yosemite Search and Rescue and the Yosemite Mountain Shop, and eventually settled in Canada where he continued his work as an educator and steward for wild places.

The south face of la Meije (3983m) and the upper Etancons Valley, with the Glacier Carre covered in snow during spring, Massif des Ecrins, France. [Photo] Manu Rivaud

Melting Giants: La Meije, Massif des Ecrins, France

For 141 years since its first ascent, mountaineers from around the world traveled to climb la Meije in the Massif des Ecrins of France. Meanwhile, the permafrost that held its stones together was melting. On August 7, 2018, rockfall destroyed much of the normal route. In this On Belay story from Alpinist 68, two locally based guides–Benjamin Ribeyre and Erin Smart–recount a search for a new way up the peak amid the uncertainties of the planet’s future.

The Kendal Mint Cake. [Photo] Mike Lorenz

Tool User: Kendal Mint Cake

In this Tool Users story that first appeared in Alpinist 68–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–John Hessler explores the history of an energy bar invented in 1869: the famously (or infamously) sweet Kendal Mint Cake.

[Illustration] Rhiannon Klee

Blood That Dreams of Stone: Antonia Pozzi, Climbing Poet

During the early twentieth century, the talented young poet Antonia Pozzi sought freedom from her family and her society amid the rock spires of the Dolomites and other Italian peaks. In this feature story from Alpinist 68, David Smart provides an introduction to her career, along with translations of three of her climbing poems, with the help of Brian McKenzie and illustrations by Rhiannon Klee.

Scott Coldiron stays warm in the Valandre Troll jacket while sorting gear in the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness, Montana. [Photo] Brian White

Valandre Troll jacket: As warm as a down coat can be

Scott Coldiron has a lot of experience when it comes to staying warm on frozen alpine routes. He’s been using the Valandre Troll jacket in Montana’s Cabinet Range and reports, “Simply put, this jacket lofts better under all conditions than other down jackets I’ve used, and the resulting warmth it creates is impressive.” It’s also more expensive, however, and it lacks a couple features he would’ve liked to have. Four stars.

Katie Sauter in the Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library, Golden, Colorado. [Photo] Laura Sauter

Local Hero: Katie Sauter

Whether they’ve collected summits, books or memories, many climbers long to preserve records of the past. In this Local Hero story from Alpinist 68–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–Paula Wright presents the person responsible for cataloguing and managing one of the most extensive of these collections: Katie Sauter, director of the Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library.

Derek Franz on Magnetar (5.13d), Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado. The Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw is the first one clipped to the rope above the ground, near the lower right corner of the frame. The carabiner that the Bulletproof draw replaced was severely grooved. [Photo] Karissa Frye

Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw: The burliness of steel with the lightness of aluminum

Alpinist Digital Editor tested the Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw at Rifle Mountain Park, a world-famous sport crag where the volume of traffic frequently destroys carabiners. The Bulletproof showed hardly any signs of wear after hanging on one of the canyon’s most popular routes for four months, earning five stars. “Wait! This review is for Alpinist, what the hell is this sport climbing equipment doing here?” Franz writes. Read the article at Alpinist.com for his answer.

Mandi Franz follows the Vector Traverse on Escape Artist (III 5.10-, 7 pitches) in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado. [Photo] Derek Franz

The Less You Talk

In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 68, our digital editor Derek Franz articulates the value of staying quiet while climbing with his wife. “I’ve learned that my enthusiasm can be a detriment,” he writes. “My impulse, ever since I was a kid, has been to try to offer guidance…. I want to encourage her; I want her to realize the ability she has. My words usually come out wrong.”

Brad Gobright climbing Lurking Fear (VI 5.7 C2, 2,000') on El Capitan.[Photo] Cheyne Lempe

Brad Gobright dies in a rappelling accident while climbing in Mexico

Brad Gobright died in a rappelling accident in El Potrero Chico, Mexico on November 27. The 31-year-old Californian was a highly accomplished free-soloist and big wall climber, former Nose speed-record holder with Jim Reynolds. He was loved and respected by many people around the world and was known to have a goofy sense of humor.