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Mt. Huntington's South Ridge. [Photo] Clint Helander

The ‘Gauntlet’: Two Americans make first ascent of Huntington’s Complete South Ridge

Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley stepped off the plane on Alaska’s Tokositna Glacier April 18 and immediately committed to Mt. Huntington’s South Ridge, which had never been climbed in its entirety until they summited April 23. The ridge is long and extremely committing because of hazards that make retreat a dangerous option. A storm pinned the climbers on the summit without food until April 25, when they were able to descend the West Face Couloir.

Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman are receiving the American Alpine Club's Cutting Edge Award for their 2015 ascent of K6 West (7040m) by a new route on the Southwest Ridge (M6 90 degrees, 1800m) at a benefit celebration in Denver on June 3. The event will also recognize David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid, Sean and Timmy O'Neill, Doug Walker and Sean Patrick for their contributions to social and environmental causes around the world. [Photo] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club

American Alpine Club presents its second annual Excellence in Climbing Awards

Tickets are now available for the American Alpine Club’s second annual Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration in Denver on June 3. The event will honor several climbers for their contributions to social and environmental causes around the world. In addition, a Cutting Edge Award will recognize an ascent performed in upstanding style. Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman are receiving the Cutting Edge Award while David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid, Sean and Timmy O’Neill, Doug Walker and Sean Patrick are being inducted into Hall of Mountaineering Excellence.

Jess Roskelley climbs a mixed pitch on the first ascent of Raggedy Man (5.9 WI4+) in Montana's Cabinet Mountains, March 20. [Photo] Scott Coldiron

Arc’teryx Procline: One boot for skiing and ice climbing

An ice climbing boot that handles skis as well? Jess Roskelley tested the Arc’teryx Procline Carbon Lite boots and enjoyed their versatility for approaching and climbing routes in the snowy backcountry. He used the boots on mixed pitches and WI 6, and cruised out in full control of his skis on the way down–no more sliding into tree wells with soft boots mounted into Silveretta bindings! He awarded the Proclines four stars.

North Six Shooter towers over the valley of Indian Creek, Utah. Just east of Canyonlands National Park, this area is now included in Bears Ears National Monument, which was designated by former President Barack Obama on December 28, 2016. [Photo] Derek Franz

Trump signs executive order to review Bears Ears and all national monuments designated in the last 21 years

President Donald Trump signed an executive order to review Bears Ears and all national monuments designated in the last 21 years. The order was issued with the promise of “no predetermined outcome,” but his accompanying remarks suggest that his administration expects to make changes to the monuments’ status. The Access Fund, Friends of Cedar Mesa and Utah Dine Bikeyah respond to the threat with statements in support of established monuments.

A view of Cerro Trono from the east side of the Cordillera Sarmiento. [Photo] Whitney Clark

A foray into the ‘Never-Never Land’ of Cordillera Sarmiento, Chile

Last March Americans Whitney Clark, Jon Griffin and Tad McCrea ventured into a notoriously wet and seldom-visited coastal region of South America–Patagonia’s Cordillera Sarmiento–in hopes of climbing a peak called Alas de Angel Sur. The approach to their main objective proved too difficult to decipher in the time and weather that they had, but the team still managed to climb another peak by a route they dubbed Estoy Verde (M6 200m). Clark recounts their rain-soaked adventure.

Brette Harrington leads an offwidth choked with ice and sugar snow in the vicinity of Pitch 9 on Riders on the Storm (VI 5.12d/5.13 A3, 1300m), Torre Central, Torres del Paine, Patagonia. She used a variety of tricks to make progress, including aid moves off her ice axes. [Photo] Drew Smith

Riding the Storm on Torre Central, Patagonia

Mayan Smith-Gobat returns to the Torres del Paine in Patagonia to attempt a complete free ascent of Riders on the Storm (VI 5.12d/5.13 A3, 1300m) on the Torre Central, which she came close to accomplishing with Ines Papert in 2016. This year the weather dashed all hopes for a complete ascent, but Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington summoned all their reserves and went up the icy wall anyway. Here Smith-Gobat relates their journey inward, upward and downward.

Nick Bullock and Paul Ramsden's North Buttress route (ED+ 1600m) on Nyainqentangla South East. Their descent on the east ridge is marked in green. [Photo] Nick Bullock

Jury selects two teams for Piolets d’Or awards this year for 2016 ascents

The Piolets d’Or jury is giving awards to two climbing teams this year for the 2016 first ascents on North Buttress of Nyainqentangla South East in Tibet by Nick Bullock and Paul Ramsden of Britain, and the North Buttress of Thalay Sagar in the Indian Gangotri by Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov of Russia. Honorable mentions go to the Korean team of Cho Seok-mun, Kim Chang-ho, and Park Joung-yong, and Americans Colin Haley and Alex Honnold. Jeff Lowe is receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award.