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David Allfrey, Kieran Brownie and Paul McSorley's route, El Abrazo de la Serpiente (Embrace of the Serpent; V 5.11c R/X 660m), on Cerro Pajarito is shown in red, as seen from Cerro Diablo. [Photo] Paul McSorley

A sweltering, runout adventure on Colombia’s Cerro Pajarito

On February 1, Dave Allfrey, Kieran Brownie and Paul McSorley completed a new route up the unclimbed northwest face of Cerro Pajarito in the Cerros de Mavecure in Guainia, Colombia. El Abrazo de la Serpiente (Embrace of the Serpent; V 5.11c R/X 660m) was established ground up, onsight, over two trips. The rainforest heat was the crux.

Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell and John Long after the first one-day ascent of the Nose in 1975. [Photo] Courtesy of StoneMastersPress

Climbing legend Jim ‘the Bird’ Bridwell dies at age 73

Jim Bridwell died this morning, February 16, in Palm Springs, California, after months of suffering from illness. He was 73. Nicknamed “the Bird,” Bridwell has been an icon of American climbing for decades. He arrived in Yosemite as a wide-eyed 17-year-old and learned from the foremost climbers of the day, including Royal Robbins, Layton Kor (for whom he later named his son), Chuck Pratt and Frank Sacherer. He eventually mentored the next generation of climbing legends such as John Long, John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Billy Westbay and countless others. Bridwell was known for ingenuity as well as climbing prowess.

The Grit and Rock First Ascent Award recipients this year, in alphabetical order, from top left-to-right, are: Katie Bono, Cecilia Buil, Whitney Clark, Ixchel Foord, Ilana Jesse, Josie McKee, Nina Neverov, Caro North, Alena Panova and Anna Torretta. [Image] Derek Franz

2018 Grit and Rock First Ascent Award recipients announced

Grit and Rock recently announced the recipients of its 2018 First Ascent Award, a grant that is dedicated to promoting mountain exploration and first ascents by women. The recipients this year, in alphabetical order, are Katie Bono, Cecilia Buil, Whitney Clark, Ixchel Foord, Ilana Jesse, Josie McKee, Nina Neverov, Caro North, Alena Panova and Anna Torretta. The teams plan to attempt new routes in Alaska, India, Kyrgyzstan and Nepal.

Elizabeth Hawley. [Photo] Courtesy of the Michael and Meg Leonard collection

Elizabeth Hawley Remembered

Bernadette McDonald recounts the life of Elizabeth Hawley, who died January 26, 2018. Hawley was a prolific and esteemed journalist who lived in Kathmandu, Nepal, and documented Himalayan mountaineering from 1959 until 2015. McDonald, who authored a biography about Hawley, describes the 94-year-old as “a feminist before her time, a pillar of society in Kathmandu, an icon in the mountaineering community, a fiercely independent woman, and a dear friend to many.”

The 2018 recipients of the American Alpine Club Climbing Awards

American Alpine Club announces 2018 Climbing Awards, Annual Benefit Dinner

The American Alpine Club has announced the recipients of its 2018 Climbing Awards, given annually to distinguish individuals for their service, leadership and accomplishments. This year’s honorees include John Roskelley, Alex Honnold, Ellen Lapham, Margo Hayes and Sally Jewell, who will be presented with their awards at the AAC’s Annual Benefit Dinner on February 24 in Boston, Massachusetts.

An overview of Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva's attempt at a route up Rungofarka's north face (center), their successful route up the north ridge (left), which they dubbed The T and A Show (VI M6 WI4+, 1200m), and their descent route (right). [Photo] Alan Rousseau

Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau establish The T&A Show on Rungofarka

From September 30 to October 4, Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau completed a long and technical new route on the north ridge of Rungofarka (6495m), a peak in the Zanskar Range that the Indian Mountaineering Foundation recently opened for permits. They named the route with a play on their names, The T&A Show (VI M6 WI4+, ca. 50 pitches, 1200m). Rousseau documents their experience in this trip report.

Barbara Zangerl on Pitch 22, Magic Mushroom (5.14a). [Photo] Francois Lebeau

Larcher and Zangerl make a rare free ascent of El Cap’s Magic Mushroom (5.14a) at the end of another busy season for the Big Stone

It’s been another productive season for climbers on El Capitan: Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a rare free ascent of Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a, 2,900′) on El Capitan, topping out on December 10 after an 11-day push from the ground. Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set a new speed record on the Nose on October 21, and Keita Kurakami redpointed all individual pitches on the Nose (5.14a) on November 15 but plans to return and climb it in better style.