![This photo shows Gimmigela East (7005m) from a vantage point above the team's base camp. Auer wrote, Our plan of putting up a base camp with a direct view to the mountain was shut down by our porters. They all stopped in Camp Pangpema, the base camp for Kangchenjunga (8586m). We convinced five of them to shuttle up our loads a little bit higher during a few days. [Photo] Elias Holzkenecht](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/gimmigela-east-2-930x620.jpg)
When Hansjorg Auer and Alex Blumel couldn’t get a permit for their original objective last November they were pointed to Gimmigela East (7005m). It turned… Read More »Alpine Style: Two Austrians make the first ascent of Gimmigela East’s North Face
![Nik Mirhashemi and Mark Pugliese climbed a route they called Wrong Way Bud (5.6 M4, 500m) on Norbu Peak (5634m) on October 23. [Photo] Nik Mirhashemi](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/rolwaling-trip-1-930x620.jpg)
Americans Nik Mirhashemi and Mark Pugliese made three probable first ascents on three peaks in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley on their first trip to the Himalaya… Read More »Two Americans climb three new routes in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley
![The red line shows the approximate route of Standing Room Only (Russian Alpine Grade 5a, Scottish IV, M4, 650m) on the West Face of Xialongrezha (5678m). The first four pitches are obscured below the fin of rock. [Photo] Rob Baker](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/xialongrezha-1-930x620.jpg)
A team of five friends self-fund an expedition to a rarely visited area of Tibet and climb a previously unnamed 5678-meter peak they named Xialongrezha.… Read More »Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet
![Tom Ballard makes the first ascent of Dust in the Wind (M8, 100m), Val di Fassa, Italy, while rope-soloing. [Photo] Tom Ballard](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/ballard-rope-solos-1-930x620.jpg)
Tom Ballard closes out the year in the Dolomites with a rope-solo first ascent of Dust in the Wind (M8, 100m) and a casual multiday… Read More »Tom Ballard finishes the year with back-to-back rope-solo ascents
![This aerial shot shows the magnitude of the Eiger North Face (3970m). Metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800m) takes a central line up the shadowy face. [Photo] Archive Metanoia](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/metanoia-1-930x620.jpg)
Thomas Huber, Roger Schaeli and Stephan Siegrist complete the second ascent of Metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800m) on the Eiger North Face (3970m), more… Read More »Huber, Schaeli and Siegrist complete the second ascent of Eiger’s Metanoia
![Marcin Tomaszewksi leads a pitch during the first ascent of Titanic (M5 5.10c A3 WI4, 1800m) on the North Face of the Eiger (3970m), which he completed with Tom Ballard on November 30 to December 6. [Photo] Tom Ballard](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/eiger-titanic-1-930x620.jpg)
Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewksi have only climbed together three times, but all those climbs have been first ascents. They added another hard new route… Read More »First ascent of ‘Titanic’ adds another chapter to the Eiger North Face
![From Conrad Anker's The City and The Blade in Alpinist 38. Mugs Stump on the Spanish Pillar of Meru North (6450m) in 1988. [Photo] Steve Quinlan](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/xmugs-stump-file-photo-930x620.jpg.pagespeed.ic.rxD9AgeHdL.jpg)
The 2017 Mugs Stump recipients aim to tackle: the East Face of Golgotha (Alaska); the West Face of Xanadu (Alaska); the North Face of Rungofarka… Read More »And the 2017 Mugs Stump Winners Are…
![Conrad Anker is the keynote speaker for the 2017 American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner on February 25 in Seattle, Washington. [Photo] Jimmy Chin](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/xaac-benefit-dinner-1-930x620.jpg.pagespeed.ic.HWXk4FR8rh.jpg)
The American Alpine Club opens registration for its Annual Benefit Dinner on February 25 in Seattle, Washington. Five people will receive awards. Conrad Anker is… Read More »American Alpine Club to present five awards at its annual Benefit Dinner Feb. 25
![The red line marks the route and camps of Moveable Feast (ED2 M7 WI5 5c A3, 1400m) on Thalay Sagar (6904m), India. [Photo] Courtesy of Dmitry Golovchenko and Mountain.RU.](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/thalay-sagar-moveable-feast-1-1-930x620.jpg)
The golden trio of Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov score another Russian Golden Axe for their alpine-style first ascent of Moveable Feast (ED2… Read More »Russians win Golden Axe for Moveable Feast on Thalay Sagar
On November 16, 2016, the Access Fund released a statement in response to the outcome of the U.S. presidential election, “What Will the Trump Administration… Read More »Public Lands and the Future of Advocacy: An Interview with Brady Robinson (Part I in an Interview Series)
![Jacopo Larcher climbs The Nipple pitch (5.13d) on Zodiac (VI 5.13d) at sunset. [Photo] Francois Lebeau and Black Diamond Equipment](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/zodiac-free-1-930x620.jpg)
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher recently made the third free ascent of Zodiac (VI 5.13d) on El Capitan after a 13-year period in which no… Read More »Zangerl and Larcher make the third free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan
![Jim Detterline in his element on the upper section of Kiener's Route on the East Face of Longs Peak (14,259'), July 2010. [Photo] Lisa Foster](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/detterline-1.jpg)
Jim Detterline participated in more than 1,200 rescues in his long career as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park. He was well loved… Read More »Jim Detterline touched many lives as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park
