So far this year, we’ve gotten a glimpse into the mind of Reinhold Messner, let Jeremy Collins’ words and sketches transport us around the world and adventured with the Explorer’s Club. Perhaps you’ll be inspired to pick up a copy of Against the Wind, Eventually a Sequoia or Letters from the Edge while we’re busy at work on Alpinist 94. Happy reading!
Tucked deep within British Columbia’s Coast Mountains, the Tiedemann Group is far less famous than its taller neighbor to the west, Mt. Waddington, but its frozen couloirs and snow-speckled rock faces tell a captivating story of their own. The range remains almost as remote today as it was a hundred years ago when Don and Phyllis Munday first visited. Tami Knight shares its lesser-known history, from the early days of hellacious approaches and fresh summits to modern tales of helicopter access and bold new lines. All tied up in various ways with Serra V, the last major summit to be reached in the group, Glenn Woodsworth, Michael Down, Peter Croft and Ethan Berman detail their own memories and misadventures.
This year, Sonnie Trotter brought us back to 2006, Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish), as his fingers flexed against steep granite on the first free ascent of Cobra Crack. We stood next to Mimi Zieman in a whiteout as she waited for her teammates on Chomolungma (Everest) in 1988. Lisa Roderick gave us an intimate look at Denali’s Kahiltna Basecamp. These stories represent a small piece of everything Alpinist editors and contributors read in 2025; may they bring you as much inspiration, curiosity and humor as they did us.
The following eight essays are part of 18 published in Alpinist 75 (Autumn 2021) for “The Many Futures of Alpinism” feature.
![From Conrad Anker's The City and The Blade in Alpinist 38. Mugs Stump on the Spanish Pillar of Meru North (6450m) in 1988. [Photo] Steve Quinlan](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/mugs-stump-file-photo-930x620.jpg)
The 2017 Mugs Stump recipients aim to tackle: the East Face of Golgotha (Alaska); the West Face of Xanadu (Alaska); the North Face of Rungofarka and a prominent rock buttress on the nearby Northwest Face of Peak 5780 (India); the North Face of Barnaj II (India); and the world’s second highest unclimbed peak, Mucho Chhish (Pakistan).
![This photo of the southeast face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m) shows Ines Papert and Luka Lindic's new route, Lost in China (ED WI5+ M6, 1200m), in red. [Photo] Ines Papert and Luka Lindic](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/lost-in-china-fa-1-930x620.jpeg)
Ines Papert and Luka Lindic discover the best ice either of them have ever encountered so high on a mountain during the two-day ascent of their new route on Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Lost in China (ED WI5+ M6, 1200m).
Alpinist seeks a producer for The Alpinist Film Festival.
Dynamic and challenging part-time position helps plan, organize and execute annual film festival for Alpinist Magazine. Applicant must be self-reliant, resourceful, organized, experienced in event planning and proficient in budgets and fundraising.
