Cairngorms: Multiple Falls on Stiff Ice
A combination of bulletproof, dinner-plating ice and poor technique give two climbers an exciting day at Coire an t-Sneachda in the Scottish Cairngorms. After taking two falls, they still finished the climb.
Climbing Nanga Parbat in the Cold Winter Months
Daniele Nardi (Italy) and Elisabeth Revol (France) are attempting the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. They have been capturing video footage in the midst of their cold and windy attempt, giving us a good impression of what it’s like up there this time of year.
Franconia Notch: The Black Dike
In 1971, a 19-year-old John Bouchard, climbed the 400-foot Black Dike up Cannon Cliff, solo, despite having a stuck rope, one mitten and a broken pick. In his time, a WI4+ was unheard of, and only four years earlier, the hardest “stepless ascent” was Mount Washington’s Pinnacle Gully at WI3+.
Regulators, Episode 9: Chasing the Unknown
“Chasing the Unknown,” Episode 9 of the Regulators, takes you from the start of the ice season this year in October as my partners and I started hitting the hills in search of ice. It seems like every year we start searching earlier, yet we still expect to find ice somewhere.
Bozeman Ice Fest Trailer
It’s COMING!
Cassin Ridge Climb
In July 2012, Tom Livingstone and Tom Ripley made a two day ascent of the Cassin Ridge on the South Face of Denali.
Cornuau-Davaille Route, Les Droites
Marion Poitevin and Philippe Batoux climb the Cornuau-Davaille route on the north face of Les Droites.
North Pillar Sit Start – Viva Patagonia
I’d just completed the hardest climb of my life, one of the longest in the history of the range. Laid out at our feet, the spires and seracs emerged in stark shapes of light and dark. I sat down, and the view below disappeared. Glaciers, ridges, cracks and even summits– none of them were what I traveled to Patagonia to find. I came here to begin to lead my life intentionally, not to drift anymore, but to choose my own path. Now, I was starting to see the way. — Cheyne Lemp, Alpinist 39
Monkey Tales: Episode 1 – “Choss Monkeys on Parade”
The wild Choss Monkeys of Montana revisit Pine Creek’s Succubus (M7+). Originally established by Tom Kalakay and Chuck Swenson, Pete Tapley was the first to free the line in 1998, sandbagging the grade along the way. Since then, the route has morphed seasonally, with a few of the bolts ending up in the talus below, while the grade steadily increases. It remains a local test piece.
Wet Tooling – Deep Water Dry Tooling
Aaron Mulkey was feeling the summer heat, and lack of ice. Luckily, this ice climber wasn’t going to let the high temps or lack of ice get him down. We believe this is the first ever video of Deep Water Dry Tooling (Wet Tooling)!
Days Of Storm
Two years ago Eliseu Frechou, Marcio Bruno and Fernando Leal climbed a new route on Mt. Roraima. The video below details their experience above the jungle. For a written account of their climb check out Alpinist 33.
A Video From Cheyne Lempe
When asked about the creation of this film Cheyne told Alpinist, “I wanted to do the video because I was getting sick of doing the whole, ‘Here’s some climbing I went to do in Patagonia, or whatever.’ This video is a breath of fresh air to me. It’s something different that I’ve never done before, and I didn’t have very much time so I edited the video on the fly and I was going with what I felt looked good. My first instinct of which clip should go where just flowed together and it just ended up working out.”