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Mt. Forbes (3612m) with the East Face line (M4 WI3) climbed by Quentin Lindfield Roberts and Alik Berg drawn in red. [Photo] John Scurlock

Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg tick the first known ascent of Mt. Forbes’ East Face

The east face of Mt. Forbes (3612m) in the Canadian Rockies has presented a proud and obvious objective for generations of climbers, but it only just recently saw its first known ascent, on October 2, when Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg scampered up a direct line they are simply calling the East Face (M4 WI3+). The two made the round trip from October 1 to October 3. “People have been looking at that face for a long time,” Roberts told Alpinist. “It is just way back there and hard to gauge conditions…. There are a few faces like this left in the Rockies, but everything has to line up well if you want to do them!”

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Editors, publishers form Outdoor Media for Inclusion to amplify diverse voices in outdoor media

A group of publishers and editors who oversee consumer and B2B outdoor media titles have formed the working group Outdoor Media for Inclusion (OM4I) to provide more opportunities for journalists and contributors who are Black, Indigenous, people of color, and members of other marginalized communities. OM4I aims to advance representation for people of color and others previously marginalized in the outdoor industry.

A screenshot of the Climb the Hill panel that took place on Zoom, Wednesday, September 23. The discussion focused on public lands and the environment. Normally, Climb the Hill is an in-person event that takes place annually in Washington, DC. This year was a virtual gathering because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Clockwise, from top left to right, are professional climber Alex Honnold, gym owner Abby Dione, pro climber Tommy Caldwell, Congressman Joe Neguse, Access Fund Policy Director Erik Murdock, and American Sign Language interpreter Norma Villegas. [Photo] Derek Franz

Climb the Hill goes virtual: Zoom panels focus on public lands and DEI

As with so many other events around the world, the American Alpine Club and Access Fund’s annual Climb the Hill event was held virtually this week. Two discussion panels were open to the public on September 23 and 24. They focused on public lands and the environment; and on diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI). The featured panelists were Congressman Joe Neguse, and climbers Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Abby Dione, Meagan Martin, Margo Hayes, Kai Lighter and Katie Boue. Access Fund directors Chris Winter and Erik Murdock also participated, and American Sign Language interpreters were provided.

Noah McKelvin and Luke Negley after pounding a birthday-cake flavored protein shake with Finger Fanger (5.10a, 500') looming behind them on the north face of Pikes Peak, Colorado. [Photo] McKelvin/Negley collection

Transcendental Linkup: Five routes up to 5.12a totaling 2,400′ on Pikes Peak in 21 hours

On August 22, Noah McKelvin (28) and Luke Negley (20) climbed five major formations on Colorado’s Pikes Peak in a single push. On the way they racked up five routes with difficulties up to 5.12a totaling 2,400 feet of technical terrain, most of which is around 12,000 to 13,000 feet in elevation. Their car-to-car time was 21 hours, with 16 hours spent climbing. They called it the Transcendental Linkup.

Alpinist 67 (Autumn 2019) and Alpinist 68 (Winter 2019-20) include stories that are finalists in the category for Best Mountaineering Article at the 2020 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival.

Two Alpinist stories are candidates for Best Mountaineering Article in the Banff Mountain Book Competition

The Banff Mountain Book Competition released the long list of contenders for various categories on September 15–two stories from Alpinist magazine are being considered for Best Mountaineering Article: “Denali, A Universe,” by Jan Harper-Haines, first published in Alpinist 67 (Autumn 2019), and “Melting Giants,” by Benjamin Ribeyre and Erin Smart, Alpinist 68 (Winter 2019-20).

This image shows the five books that are on the shortlist for the 2020 Boardman-Tasker award. [Image] BoardmanTasker.com

Five books are on the Boardman-Tasker shortlist for 2020

Five books are on the shortlist for the Boardman-Tasker Award this year, and Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives is concluding her two-year term limit as a judge. There were 22 entries this year from Great Britain, Ireland, Canada, New Zealand and the USA. The award will be presented at the Digital Kendal Mountain Festival on November 21.

Chris Weidner sends the last pitch (5.12d) of Gambler's Fallacy (5.13b, 9 pitches) on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisotoyou'u), with Bruce Miller belaying on August 9. Weidner's redpoint was the first ascent of the route, to which he and Miller have dedicated 51 days since July 2017. Weidner will soon return to support Miller's free attempt. [Photo] Jon Glassberg/Louder Than Eleven

Two new 5.13 routes freed on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisotoyou’u) on August 9

Two new 5.13 routes were free climbed on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisotoyou’u) on August 9. Chris Weidner sent Gambler’s Fallacy (V 5.13b, 9 pitches) with Bruce Miller in support after the partners had spent a total of 51 days on the wall since they started the project in July 2017. Meanwhile, Josh Wharton and Phil Gruber completed Beethoven’s Honeymoon (V 5.13-, 9 pitches).

The northwest face of Chamlang (7321m) with UFO Line (ABO: M6, WI5, 2500m) marked in red. [Photo] Zdenek Hak and Marek Holecek collection

Four “significant ascents” announced for 2020 Piolets d’Or

The Piolets d’Or committee has announced the selection of four “significant ascents” from 2019 that will be recognized on September 19-22 during the Ladek Mountain Film Festival in Poland. Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak (Czech Republic), Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima (Japan), Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman (USA), and Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva (USA) are all being recognized for their respective ascents of Chamlang (7321m), Rakaposhi (7,788m), Link Sar (7041m) and Tengi Ragi Tau (6938m). Catherine Destiville is receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award.