![The west face of Tengi Ragi Tau (ca. 6940m) with Release the Kraken (AI5 M5+, 1600m) drawn in red. Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva's three bivy sites are marked in blue near the beginning, middle and top of the upper rockband. [Photo] Alan Rousseau](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/xtengi-ragi-tau-west-face-1-1-930x620.jpg.pagespeed.ic.2D51T-0_5Y.jpg)
Alan Rousseau writes about the first ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau’s west face, which he completed with Tino Villanueva in mid-October. Explaining the name of… Read More »Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva Release the Kraken on Tengi Ragi Tau’s west face
![[Photo] Height of Land Publications](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/backcountrymagazine.jpg)
The news of Backcountry.com suing smaller companies for using the word “backcountry” in their titles has led to inquiries about the status of Alpinist’s sister… Read More »Backcountry.com battles small businesses over trademark
![This illustration by Andreas Schmidt appeared with Sara Aranda's Full Value story, Into Darkness We Go, in Alpinist 62. [Illustration] Andreas Schmidt](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a62-full-value-aranda-930x620.jpg)
Two stories from Alpinist 62 (2018) have been selected for the “Notables Lists” for Best American Essays and Best American Sports Writing, respectively: Sara Ann… Read More »Two Alpinist stories receive honorable mentions in Best American anthologies
![Phil Powers at an American Alpine Club Benefit Dinner with Doug Walker, a former president of the AAC who died in an avalanche in 2016. [Photo] Jim Aikman](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/phil-powers-1-930x620.jpg)
American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers announced yesterday, October 1, that he plans to retire after 14 years. He will remain CEO until this winter,… Read More »American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers to step down in summer 2020
![Climber representatives pose in front of the nation's capital in Washington, DC, last year during the Access Fund and American Alpine Club's third annual Climb the Hill event, which included more than 60 delegates. [Photo] Stephen Gosling](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/climb-the-hill-2018-recap-1-1-640x620.jpg)
Climbers and activists are meeting this week in Washington, DC, to lobby Congress on a host of issues, including the climate crisis, energy development and… Read More »Climbers join activists worldwide in demand for action on climate crisis
![Helen Kilness, left, and Jean (Jene) Crenshaw, ca. 2014. [Photo] Katie Ives](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/jene-crenshaw-obit-1.jpg)
Jean (Jene) Crenshaw–the cofounder of Summit magazine, the first monthly publication dedicated to climbing in the US–died September 2 in Big Bear, California, at age… Read More »Jean (Jene) Crenshaw, cofounder of Summit magazine, dies at 95
![The cover of Alpinist 66 features Lonnie Kauk climbing Magic Line (5.14c) in Yosemite Valley. The story is on the long list for Best Mountaineering Article in the Banff Mountain Book Competition. 13 Feet Under by Jayme Moye is from the same issue and is also on the Banff longlist in the same category. [Photo] Jim Thornburg](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/banff-book-comp-1-930x620.jpg)
Two stories from Alpinist 66 are on the longlist for Best Mountaineering Article in the 2019 Banff competition: “13 Feet Under” By Jayme Moye, and… Read More »Two Alpinist stories included on the longlist for Banff Mountain Book Competition; Boardman Tasker shortlist also announced
![Mt. Hooker with Gambling in the Winds (V 5.12+, 2,000') drawn in red. [Photo] Austin Siadak](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/gambling-in-the-winds-1-930x620.jpg)
In 2015, Hayden Kennedy and Whit Magro spent a week in Wyoming’s Wind River Range establishing a route over new terrain over halfway up the… Read More »Friends complete Hayden Kennedy’s vision on Mt. Hooker: Gambling in the Winds (V 5.12+)
![The Epaulette (West) Ridge of Mt. Waddington follows the right skyline. The bergschrund that the climbers jumped down at the end of the ridge below the summit is visible as a shadowed line, just below the horizon on the white slope. [Photo] Courtesy of John Scurlock](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/xwaddington-west-ridge-1-930x620.jpg.pagespeed.ic.pUZFussfk3.jpg)
On August 3-7, the Scottish alpinist Simon Richardson and Canadian alpinist Ian Welsted made what is likely the first complete ascent of the West Ridge… Read More »Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted complete first ascent of Waddington’s West Ridge
![Seto Hi'um (TD: M4 WI4 1150m) on the south face of Chhopa Bamare (6109m) as seen from base camp. [Photo] Benjamin Billet](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/chhopa-bamare-1-930x620.jpeg)
This past winter, from February 9 through March 3, Benjamin Billet, of France, and John Kelley, of Alaska, completed the first ascent of Chhopa Bamare… Read More »Benjamin Billet and John Kelley complete first ascent of Chhopa Bamare (6109m)
![The west faces of Gasherbrum IV, V, VI, and VII. The peak of Gasherbrum II is just barely visible behind the southern ridge of Gasherbrum IV. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) is hidden behind Gasherbrum V. [Photo] Florian Ederer, Wikimedia](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/gasherbrum-vii-rescue-1-930x620.jpg)
On July 20 Cala Cimenti, of Italy, became the first person to stand on top of 6955-meter Gasherbrum VII. Cimenti’s elation, however, was soon cut… Read More »Fall during ski descent on Gasherbrum VII results in dramatic rescue from 6300m
![Chashkin I (6035m), Pakistan. [Photo] Tico Gangulee](https://alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/chashkin-fa-1-930x620.jpg)
On June 20, in a round-trip from his advanced base camp that took approximately 11 hours, Tico Gangulee free soloed the first ascent–and first ski… Read More »Tico Gangulee solos the first ascent and first ski descent of Chashkin I (6035m)
