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Rob Kepley on Dos Equis (5.10b), Cathedral Spires, South Platte, Colorado. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven

The redesigned Five Ten Quantum: Versatile, high performance climbing shoes

by Chris Van Leuven

The Five Ten Quantum rock shoes were designed to be an all-around, high performance shoe. Chris Van Leuven tested them on slabs, cracks and steeps,… Read More »The redesigned Five Ten Quantum: Versatile, high performance climbing shoes

Nick Bullock and Paul Ramsden's North Buttress route (ED+ 1600m) on Nyainqentangla South East. Their descent on the east ridge is marked in green. [Photo] Nick Bullock

Jury selects two teams for Piolets d’Or awards this year for 2016 ascents

by Derek Franz

The Piolets d’Or jury is giving awards to two climbing teams this year for the 2016 first ascents on North Buttress of Nyainqentangla South East… Read More »Jury selects two teams for Piolets d’Or awards this year for 2016 ascents

Barbara Zangerl carries a cam in her mouth to save energy for placing it during her greenpoint bid of Switzerland's Gondo Crack (5.14b R). The route was bolted 15 years ago and remained unclimbed until the end of March when Zangerl and her partner, Jacopo Larcher, did the first ascents using the bolts. In early April the two then sent the route using removable protection, skipping the bolts and risking huge falls from the crux. [Photo] Richard Felderer

Two climbers send Switzerland’s longstanding Gondo Crack project (5.14b R) on trad gear

by Derek Franz

Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher made the first ascents of Switzerland’s Gondo Crack (5.14b R) in early April. The 17-meter line was a 15-year project… Read More »Two climbers send Switzerland’s longstanding Gondo Crack project (5.14b R) on trad gear

Nathan Martinez and Steve Dilk sit atop North Six Shooter in Indian Creek, Utah, in 2013. The area is now included in Bears Ears National Monument. Canyonlands National Park is in the background. [Photo] Derek Franz

Good news and bad news for public land, and an in-depth look at the politics surrounding Bears Ears National Monument

by Derek Franz

April is likely to be a pivotal time for the future of Bears Ears National Monument in Utah. U.S. Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke is poised… Read More »Good news and bad news for public land, and an in-depth look at the politics surrounding Bears Ears National Monument

The author enjoys the Julbo Explorer 2.0 sunglasses on a backcountry ski run in Colorado. Mt. Sopris (12,966'), left, Capitol Peak (14,131') and other summits in the famous Elk Range are visible in the background. [Photo] Derek Franz

Julbo Explorer 2.0: A worthy new member to a long, proud lineage of sunglasses

by Derek Franz

Julbo sunglasses continue to stand the test of time and perform as well as ever with modern technology. The Explorer 2.0, which is complete with… Read More »Julbo Explorer 2.0: A worthy new member to a long, proud lineage of sunglasses

For illustration purposes only. Actual product may vary in color, specs and corporeal dimension. [Image] Robin Earle

The Emperor Jacket: so lightweight and breathable, you’ll hardly know it’s there

by Paula Rumpelshorts

Alpinist Fashion Editor Paula Rumpelshorts reviews the latest in alpine outerwear: the Emperor Jacket (so lightweight and breathable, you’ll hardly know it’s there).

El Regalo de Mwono on the Central Tower, Torres del Paine, Patagonia (VI 5.13b, 1200m) was first climbed in the early 1990s by Paul Pritchard, Sean Smith, Noel Craine and Simon Yates and rated VI 5.10 A4. [Photo] Courtesy of Nico Favresse, Siebe Vanhee and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll

Three Belgian climbers free 1200-meter route on Central Tower of Torres del Paine

by Derek Franz

Belgian climbers Nico Favresse, Siebe Vanhee and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll managed to squeak out a 19-day free ascent of the 1200-meter route El Regalo de… Read More »Three Belgian climbers free 1200-meter route on Central Tower of Torres del Paine

The author before a night at a large shelter outside Crater Lake National Park, Oregon. A roaring wood stove inside meant I could get a comfortable night's sleep with just a light synthetic jacket as my top layer. [Photo] Ryan Wichelns

The Patagonia Hybrid Sleeping Bag: unconventional and efficient

by Ryan Wichelns

Patagonia introduces a modern version of an old idea for an unconventional alpine sleeping bag–the Hybrid, which is intended to be used with an insulated… Read More »The Patagonia Hybrid Sleeping Bag: unconventional and efficient

Mt. Mizugaki (2230m), one of the peaks featured in Kyya Fukada's 1964 classic, One Hundred Mountains of Japan, translated in 2014 by Martin Hood. "Can one describe this mountain as a medley of crags?" Fukada wrote. "It is not the only mountain with crags, but what is unique about Mizugaki is the way it mixes its crags with its trees." [Photo] Satoru Hagihara

On Belay: A Thousand Days of Lapis Lazuli

by Keita Kurakami

After ten years as a boulderer, Keita Kurakami attempts what some other local climbers called impossible: a new free route on the daunting 110-meter Moai… Read More »On Belay: A Thousand Days of Lapis Lazuli

Christ Healing the Blind, painted ca. 1657. Dawn L. Hollis observes: The image depicts the healing of two blind men recounted in Matthew 20:29-34. Their first sight will be of the mountainous vista that dominates the canvas. [Image] Philippe de Champaigne

Wired: Rethinking Mountain Gloom

by Dawn L. Hollis

Dawn L. Hollis challenges the belief in academia that people did not care for mountains until they began climbing them at the end of the… Read More »Wired: Rethinking Mountain Gloom

1935-2017: Big-wall pioneer and world explorer Royal Robbins remembered

by Derek Franz

Royal Robbins (1935-2017) is remembered as a courageous visionary, from climbing the walls of Yosemite and the Alps, to kayaking raging rivers, and navigating his… Read More »1935-2017: Big-wall pioneer and world explorer Royal Robbins remembered

A Berec headlamp used by Martin Mushkin from the mid-1950s until 1980. [Photo] Michelle Hoffman

TOOL USERS: The Headlamp

by Paula Wright

In this Tool Users story from Alpinist 57, Paula Wright shines a light on the evolution of the headlamp. Since some climbers were still carrying… Read More »TOOL USERS: The Headlamp