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Valery Babanov on the alpine-style first ascent of the West Pillar (aka: "Magic Pillar"), with Sergey Kofanov, in 2007

2007: Open

by Sergey Kofanov

Russian alpinist Sergey Kofanov recounts his 2007 encounter with the “cosmic cold” shoulder of Jannu, when he and Valery Babanov made the first ascent of

… Read More »2007: Open

A photo of Manhattan from the author. On the connection between the landscapes of the wild and Manhattan, Brown writes, I remember the poet John Haines looking at me like I was crazy when I told him I was leaving Homer to move to a big urban jungle. He shuddered and said, 'I don't know how you can do that.' But what Alaska and Manhattan had in common was, again, a kind of intensity. And the same river running through them both. [Photo] Chip Brown

Poetry Feature: Chip Brown

by Chip Brown

In an Alpinist exclusive poetry feature, award-winning outdoor writer Chip Brown imagines the landscape of the Yukon within the sounds of the city, and in

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Shomi Suzuki atop Kumbhakarna in 1976. [Photo] Naoe Sakashita

1976-2016: Jannu Remembrances

by Naoe Sakashita

The great Japanese mountaineer Naoe Sakashita looks back on the first complete ascent of the north face of Jannu / Kumbhakarna to the summit of

The author attempting FM (5.11c) on Elephant Buttress in Colorado's Boulder Canyon. [Photo] Paul Gagner

Warm, durable and breathable: Black Diamond First Light Hoody

by Chris Van Leuven

The Black Diamond First Light Hoody does its job but it’s bulky for climbing and some features could be improved. Chris Van Leuven gives it

Kiwi climbers Lynn Crawford and Ian Jowett below the high camp in 1975.

1975: New Zealand Expedition Jannu North Face

by Graeme Dingle

In 1975 New Zealand climber Graeme Dingle joined an expedition to the legendary Wall of Shadows on Jannu / Kumbhakarna, a 7710-meter peak in Nepal.

1975: New Zealand Expedition Jannu North Face - By Graeme Dingle

Alpinist 57 Mountain Profile Essays | Jannu

by Alpinist Staff

Read all four essays by Graeme Dingle, Naoe Sakashita, Sergey Kofanov and Dawa Sherpa from our Mountain Profile of Jannu / Kumbhakarna in Alpinist 57–Spring

Roland with his rack in 2010, when Ross Taylor interviewed him at his home where he made his famous brass nuts. [Photo] Craig Ingram

Roland Pauligk (1938-2017): The man who changed climbing with his brass micronuts

by Ross Taylor

Ross Taylor grew up as a family friend of Roland Pauligk, the man who created the brass “RP” micronuts that revolutionized rock climbing in the

Mike Lewis climbs Hidden Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park with the calf snaps closed on the Dynafit Yotei pants. Lewis reports that he liked the calf snaps because they adapted the fit of the cuffs better for ice climbing after he used the pants for ski touring. [Photo] Eric Stoutenburg

The Dynafit Yotei GTX Pant sets a new standard for getting around in the mountains

by Mike Lewis

The Dynafit Yotei GTX Pants proved to be a versatile piece of outerwear for Mike Lewis, an AMGA-certified alpine guide, who reports that the pants

Marek Raganowicz soloing Suser gjennom Harryland (VI 5.10b A3, 650m) on Norway's Troll Wall (1742m). He spent 16 days on the wall with only two ropes and no fixed lines. [Photo] Marek Raganowicz

Marek Raganowicz completes the first winter solo of a route on the Troll Wall

by Derek Franz

Polish climber Marek Raganowicz spent 16 days soloing Suser gjennom Harryland (VI 5.10b A3, 650m) on Norway’s Troll Wall from January 11 to 26. The

The jury panel recently announced the first recipients for the Grit and Rock First Ascent Expedition Award. [Photo] Grit and Rock Foundation

First round of female recipients announced for Grit & Rock First Ascent Expedition Award

by Derek Franz

The inaugural First Ascent Expedition Award is giving grants to four teams across three categories. The Grit and Rock Foundation created the award last September

David Roberts on south ridge of the Angel, Revelation Mountains, Alaska, 1967. Roberts wrote about the eventful expedition in the 1968 American Alpine Journal. [Photo] Matt Hale

An Interview with David Roberts

by Michael Wejchert

Now facing Stage IV throat cancer, David Roberts reflects on his climbing and writing careers in this interview with Michael Wejchert. Roberts is one of

A climber nears the top of Rim Shot (5.11-, 400'), Bridger Jack Butte, Indian Creek, Utah. The area is included in the new Bears Ears National Monument, which Utah lawmakers are asking President Donald Trump to rescind. [Photo] Derek Franz

Arc’teryx, Ibex and Polartec join Patagonia’s movement to pressure Utah over Bears Ears

by Derek Franz

Arc’teryx, Ibex and Polartec join Patagonia to oppose Utah’s efforts to rescind Bears Ears National Monument. The tactics range from boycotting the Salt Lake City