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A climber's bookcase. [Photo] Derek Franz

The Literature of Ascent

by Stephen Slemon

“Literary mountain writing may now be giving way to the selfie,” Stephen Slemon writes in this essay. “But this shift towards the visual media may… Read More »The Literature of Ascent

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz enjoys a good seat for belaying a toprope in Gallatin Canyon, Montana. Sitting while belaying from the ground is never an ideal practice. Four prominent climbing organizations are partnering to standardize the way safety practices are taught across the country. [Photo] Mandi Franz

Four organizations team up to enhance standards for climbing ed, public policy

by Derek Franz

The American Alpine Club recently announced that it is collaborating with the Colorado Mountain Club, the Mazamas and The Mountaineers “to promote improvements in climbing… Read More »Four organizations team up to enhance standards for climbing ed, public policy

Mike Lewis guides the North Face of Longs Peak (14,259'), Rocky Mountain National Park, in mixed conditions. [Photo] Eric Stoutenburg

An Innovative Balance of Strength to Weight: Petzl Irvis Hybrid Crampons

by Mike Lewis

Part steel, part aluminum, and with Dyneema cord in place of a metal bar to connect the two halves, Mike Lewis finds that the Petzl… Read More »An Innovative Balance of Strength to Weight: Petzl Irvis Hybrid Crampons

Full Value: Degringolade

by Sibylle Hechtel

In this Full Value story from Alpinist 56 Sibylle Hechtel recounts a pivotal moment in her climbing career–her first first-ascent, in Canada’s Bugaboos, 1973. She… Read More »Full Value: Degringolade

Lungaretse (5870m). [Photo] Camilo Lopez

On Belay: Unattached

by Anna Pfaff

In this On Belay article from Alpinist 57, Anna Pfaff describes her adventures as she becomes “unattached” from maps, expectations and conventions and learns to… Read More »On Belay: Unattached

[Image] Richard T. Walker. the fallibility of intent #1, 2015; cut-out archival pigment print; 32 x 48 in. Walker's work teeters between the humorous and melancholic, juxtaposing the sublime with what it means to be imperfect and ultimately human, wrote Amy Owen in a California Gatehouse Gallery brochure. Courtesy, Richard T. Walker

Off Belay: Beyond Conquest

by Mailee Hung

In this excerpt from Alpinist 57 Mailee Hung explores artwork by Richard T. Walker that “casts unease on traditional aspirations” and helps us consider “how… Read More »Off Belay: Beyond Conquest

El Valor del Miedo (M6 A2 90+ degrees, 1000m) on Cerro Murallon's east face is marked in red.[Photo] Ragni di Lecco

Three Italians complete an unfinished route on Cerro Murallon’s east face

by Derek Franz

Three Italians completed a route up the middle of Cerro Murallon’s east face in early February that was first attempted in 1999. They named their… Read More »Three Italians complete an unfinished route on Cerro Murallon’s east face

The Alpine Luddites White Light/White Heat backpack with crampons and ice tools strapped to the outside. [Photo] Paula Wright

Alpine Luddites White Light/White Heat backpack: custom-made to contentment

by Paula Wright

Alpinist Associate Editor Paula Wright puts the Alpine Luddites White Light/White Heat backpack to the test, awarding it four stars. The company takes an a… Read More »Alpine Luddites White Light/White Heat backpack: custom-made to contentment

Loulou Boulaz. In the 1930s, Boulaz was “the only woman in the race for the big north faces,” historian Rainer Rettner writes. “She was met with a lot of distrust by men.” [Photo] Sallie Greenwood

Local Hero: Loulou Boulaz

by Sallie Greenwood

During the 1930s, one woman joined the race to climb the feared north faces of the Alps, venturing into terrain then believed to be reserved… Read More »Local Hero: Loulou Boulaz

Lowe during a September 1973 trip to the High Sierra where he and John Weiland climbed the Northeast Corner (V 5.10-) of Keeler Needle . During the ascent they carried 25 nuts and 25 pins. Lowe wrote in the 1975 American Alpine Journal, We could have used more nuts. [Photo] Jeff Lowe collection/jeffloweclimber.com

Jeff Lowe to receive Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award

by Derek Franz

Jeff Lowe will receive the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award in April.

Alex Honnold speaks to a crowd of Save Red Rock supporters and media outside the Clark County Government Center before the February 22 hearing in which the County Zoning Commission ruled in favor of the concept plan for the Blue Diamond Hill development. Regardless of the outcome, the event was awesome--tons of support for our side, said Chris Weidner, a climber and freelance writer who attended the hearing. [Photo] Heather Weidner

Clark County approves concept plan for development near Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

by Derek Franz

Clark County Commissioners allow a 2011 concept plan to proceed for a 5,000-home development on Blue Diamond Hill near Red Rock National Conservation Area, which… Read More »Clark County approves concept plan for development near Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

The north face of Kumbhakarna, above local settlements. Some names of local expedition workers are absent from written records. For a few in this article--Penuri, Ungati and Tumba--where we couldn't find other sources, we relied on climbers' memories, and it's possible the real names might be different. [Photo] Javier Camacho Gimeno

2017: Ghunsa

by Dawa Sherpa

Local guide Dawa Sherpa describes what it’s like to live and work near the base of Jannu/Kumbhakarna–a mountain sacred to his culture.